Chronicles of Early Ascents of Half Dome.
Part I: Anderson's Years

Oct 1875: Indomitable Scotchman, George Anderson

Ascender: Anderson

For about twenty years, tourists and inhabitants of the Yosemite Valley looked at Half Dome (or "South Dome") and dreamed of scaling it. Finally, in 1875, somebody had enough courage and determination to reach its top. The following article from the San Francisco Evening Bulletin appears to be the earliest newspaper account of Anderson's legendary ascent.

Evening Bulletin, San Francisco, October 19, 1875, p. 3

Newspaper article that describes Anderson's first ascent of Half Dome

An Unparalleled Feat.—On Tuesday the 12th instant, the extraordinary feat of ascending the South Dome in the Yosemite Valley was accomplished by a Scot[c]hman by birth and a sailor by profession, named George Anderson. He drilled his way up the south side, about 1,500 feet in two days.

[See Anderson's original bolt and spike found in Yosemite].

John Muir repeated Anderson's feat several weeks later. He described Anderson's and his climbs in an article published in the San Francisco Bulletin, on November 18, 1875. Here are paragraphs from that article related to Anderson's first ascent. (Muir's ascent is fully covered later). Muir also gives credit to John Conway and his sons for an earlier similar but unsuccessful attempt:

Daily Evening Bulletin, November 18, 1875, p. 1

South Dome
Its Ascent by George Anderson and John Muir.
(From our special correspondent).

Yosemite Valley, November 10, 1875.
The Yosemite South Dome is the noblest rock in the Sierra, and George Anderson, an indomitable Scotchman, has made a way to its summit... With the exception of conoidal summit of Mount Starr King, and a few minor spires and pinnacles, the South Dome is the only inaccessible rock of the valley, and its inaccessibility is pronounced in very severe and simple terms, leaving no trace of hope for the climber without artificial means. But longing eyes were none the less fixed on its noble brow, and the Anderson way will be eagerly ascended.

The Dome rises from the level floor of the valley to the height of very nearly a mile... On the east, where it is united with the dividing ridge between the great Tenaya and Nevada canyons, the Dome may be easily approached within six or seven hundred feet of the summit, where it rises in a smooth, graceful curve just a few degrees too steep to climb. Nearly all Sierra rocks are accessible on the eastern or upper side, because the glacial force which eroded them out of the solid acted from this direction[!]; but special conditions in the position and structure of the South Dome prevented the formation of the ordinary low grade, and it is this steep upper portion that the plucky Anderson has overcome. John Conway, a resident of the valley, has a flock of small boys who climb smooth rocks like lizards, and some two years ago he sent them up the dome with a rope, hoping they might be able to fasten it with spikes driven into fissures, and thus reach the top. They took the rope in tow and succeeded in making it fast two or three hundred feet above the point ordinarily reached, but finding the upper portion of the curve impracticable without laboriously drilling into the rock, he called down his lizards, thinking himself fortunate in effecting a safe retreat.

Mr. Anderson began with Conway's old rope, part of which still remains in place, and resolutely drilled his way to the top, inserting eyebolts five or six feet apart, and making his rope fast to each in succession, resting his foot on the last bolt while he drilled for the next above. Occasionally some irregularity in the curve or slight foothold would enable him to climb fifteen or twenty feet independently of the rope, which he would pass and begin drilling again, the whole being accomplished in a few days. From this slender beginning he will now proceed to construct a substantial stairway which he hopes to complete in time for next year's travel; and as he is a man of rare energy the thing will surely be done. Then, all may sing "Excelsior" in perfect safety...

Muir later used this text in at least two of his books, The Mountains of California, 1894, and The Yosemite, 1912. It is interesting to study revisions that he made in the later years. For example, in The Yosemite, Anderson, being dead and all but forgotten, didn't fare well in the edited text. The original sentence (see above), "...and as he [Anderson] is a man of rare energy the thing will surely be done", is now replaced by "...but while busy getting out timber for his stairway and dreaming of the wealth he hoped to gain from tolls, he was taken sick and died all alone in his little cabin". On the other hand, Conway and "his lizards" would get a slightly better treatment. The original text "John Conway, a resident of the valley has a flock of small boys..." is replaced by "John Conway, the master trail-builder of the Valley, and his little sons..." Muir also dropped his speculation about "Sierra rocks being accessible on the eastern or upper side, because of glacial forces", and made other corrections in the later editions of the text.

(Another description of Conway's attempt can be found in Josiah Whitney's The Yosemite Guide-book, 1874 edition).

Here are some other early descriptions of Anderson's first climb:


The earliest book that mentioned (indirectly) Anderson's Half Dome ascent, was apparently Charles Beebe Turrill's first volume of California Notes, printed in San Francisco in 1876. The author states (pp. 215-216) [emphasis mine]:

The grand feature of this section [of Yosemite Valley] is the South, or, as sometimes called, the Half Dome... The shape of the South Dome is such that but one party has ever succeeded in reaching the summit, an undertaking few will care to attempt, and still smaller number can accomplish.


In the spring of 1878, Lady Constance Frederica Gordon Cumming, of London, then about 40 years old, visited Yosemite. She intended to stay for three days, but ended up being there for three months. A collection of her letters from that trip was published under the title Granite Crags, by William Blackwood and Sons, Edinburgh/London, 1884. Her letter dated "Saturday, 4th May [1878]" talks about Anderson's climb:

Granite Crags, by C. F. Gordon Cumming, Chapter VI

...For many years [Half Dome] was considered altogether inaccessible; but about eighteen months ago [actually, two and a half years ago] it was scaled by an energetic, determined Scotchman, George Anderson by name. He hails from Montrose, but has taken up his abode in this beautiful valley; and now he looks on the Half-Dome with such mingled pride and veneration, that I should think he will never leave it.

It was in 1875 that he determined to reach the summit, if mortal man could accomplish the feat. Climbing goat-like along dizzy ledges, and clinging like a fly to every crevice that could afford him foothold, he reached the point where hitherto the boldest cragsman had been foiled. Here he halted till he had drilled a hole in the rock and securely fixed an iron stanchion with an eye-bolt, through which he passed a strong rope. Then resting on this frail support, he was able to reach farther, and to drill a second hole and fix another eye-bolt. From this point of vantage he could secure a third, carrying the rope through every bolt, and always securing it at the upper end.

Thus step by step he crept upward, till at last he had drilled holes and driven in iron stanchions right up the vast granite slab, securing 1100 feet of rope. Then rounding the mighty shoulder, he stood triumphant on the summit, and there to his amazement he found a level space of about seven acres, where not only grasses have spread a green carpet, but seven gnarled and stunted old pines, of three different kinds, have contrived to take root, and, defying storms and tempests, maintain their existence on this bleak bare summit...

This same text about Anderson and Half Dome also appeared in the Cornhill Magazine, vol. 47, April 1883, pp. 410-423, under the heading of "Early spring in California", but Gordon Cumming's authorship was not indicated in the magazine.


Another note about Anderson's first ascent is from 1879. Presumably, the (anonymous) author gathered the information directly from Anderson:

San Francisco Chronicle, July 27, 1879, p. 1; reprinted in St. Louis Globe-Democrat, August 3, 1879, p. 10

...Anderson tried to climb [Half Dome] in his stocking feet, then barefooted, then by wearing bags full of pitch tied around below his knees, then by moccasins with pine pitch on the soles. The latter was the most hopeful, but none effected much, and well was it that he failed, for never could he have retraced his steps, and his life would have had a fearful end. He finally succeeded by using baling-rope of eight thicknesses, together with 40 or 50 strong iron pins, seven inches long, with an eye in each one in which to fasten the rope...


In 1886, James M. Hutchings published his In the Heart of the Sierras. In Chapter 26, he describes Anderson's ascent. Note that this was written about a decade later, and Hutchings wasn't a direct witness of the ascent. In mid October of 1875, he was still in the Eastern Sierra, after a successful climb of Mt. Whitney (and an unsuccessful attempt on Mt. Williamson). However, Hutchings had many opportunities to talk with Anderson in later years. Here is his dramatized report, based probably on some of those conversations:

In the Heart of the Sierras, by James M. Hutchings, Chapter 26

Until the fall of 1875 the storm-beaten summit of this magnificent landmark [Half Dome] was a terra incognita, as it had never been trodden by human feet... This honor was reserved for a brave young Scotchman, a native of Montrose, named George G. Anderson, who, by dint of pluck, skill, unswerving perseverance, and personal daring, climbed to its summit; and was the first that ever successfully scaled it. This was accomplished at 3 o'clock P. M. of October 12, 1875.

The knowledge that the feat of climbing this grand mountain had on several occasions been attempted, but never with success, begat in him an irrepressible determination to succeed in such an enterprise. Imbued with this incentive, he made his way to its base; and, looking up its smooth and steeply inclined surface, at once set about the difficult exploit. Finding that he could not keep from sliding with his boots on, he tried it in his stocking feet; but as this did not secure a triumph, he tried it barefooted, and still was unsuccessful. Then he tied sacking upon his feet and legs, but as these did not secure the desired object, he covered it with pitch, obtained from pine trees near; and although this enabled him to adhere firmly to the smooth granite, and effectually prevented him from slipping, a new difficulty presented itself in the great effort required to unstick himself; and which came near proving fatal several times.

Mortified by the failure of all his plans hitherto, yet in no way discouraged, he procured drills and a hammer, with some iron eye-bolts, and drilled a hole in the solid rock; into this he drove a wooden pin, and then an eye-bolt; and after fastening a rope to the bolt, pulled himself up until he could stand upon it; and thence continued that process until he had finally gained the top—a distance of nine hundred and seventy-five feet! All honor, then, to the intrepid and skillful mountaineer, Geo. G. Anderson, who, defying and overcoming all obstacles, and at the peril of his life, accomplished that in which all others had signally failed; and thus became the first to plant his foot upon the exalted crown of the great Half Dome...


Herbert Wilson, in his 1922 book The Lore and the Lure of the Yosemite Indians offers an additional motive that could have been on Anderson's mind when he made his first ascent. Wilson does not give a source for his statement, therefore it is hard to tell how much of the following is based on facts, and how much is fiction.

The Lore and the Lure of the Yosemite Indians
by Herbert Earl Wilson, San Francisco, 1922, pp. 86-88

...Captain Anderson was at that time a resident of the Valley, and it had been his desire since his arrival to scale the magnificent peak, not alone because of the distinction of being the first man to reach the top, but because it was tacitly understood that to the man attaining this distinction would be granted a concession for building a hotel at the eastern base of the dome. In his effort Captain Anderson was opposed by some two or three others who were actuated by the same desire. One might almost wish that such a creditable ambition had been inspired by a less mercenary motive. However, be that as it may, one day Captain Anderson disappeared from the Valley without having told anyone of his intended departure or destination. This procedure was in those days unusual, and after some two or three days had elapsed without him having put in an appearance, grave fears were felt for his safety and a search party was organized to look for him. This party, composed of several residents of the Valley, concluded that the most logical place to look for Captain Anderson was in the vicinity of Half Dome, and accordingly proceeded in that direction along the old trail past Happy Isles and Vernal and Nevada Falls. On the trail near Nevada Falls they met Captain Anderson returning to the Valley, and in answer to a query as to where he had been, he said, "Gentlemen, I have been to the top of Half Dome".

...Captain Anderson had conceived this idea after days of the most painstaking exploration had failed to disclose any other way to the top. Taking no one into his confidence, he had, alone and unaided, gathered his materials, transported them over the ten miles of rough trail to the beginning of his ascent, fashioned the pegs, and slowly, step by step, had drilled the holes and built himself a ladder, nine hundred feet long, to the coveted summit...


Oct 1875: First tourists on Half Dome

Ascenders: Anderson, William Robinson, James Robinson, Edwin Gamman, S. Robert Groom, Wesley Wood, Moreland

Within days of Anderson's first ascent, at least two other parties made it to the top. Here is a description of what probably was the first "tourist" party atop the Dome:

San Francisco Chronicle, Sunday, October 24, 1875, p. 2

Climbing the Rocks
The Feat Which a Party of English Tourists Accomplished—A Narrow Escape From a Fearful Death.

The celebrated South Dome of the Yosemite is well known, and it has hitherto been asserted that to reach its summit was an impossibility. On September 15 [actually, on October 12th] both visitors and residents in the valley were thrown into a state of excitement upon it being made known that a Scotchman named George Anderson, formerly a sailor, had actually accomplished this wonderful and daring feat. Very few believed the tale, and those who had already seen the South Dome utterly denied that the feat was within the limit of possibility. A party of the English tourists concluded that they would judge for themselves by visiting the spot. Those who have been there know the kind of riding necessary to reach the base of its[!] mountain, which rises some 6,000 feet above the level of the valley.

The news spread like wildfire that the Britishers would attempt the ascent. At 6 A. M. on Saturday, the 16th of September [actually, Saturday, 16th of October], a party of eleven adventurers, headed by George Anderson, started from Black's hotel upon their seven miles ride up the precipitous height, past the Vernal and Nevada falls, and struck the little frequented trail to South Dome. On reaching the heavy masses of fallen granite known as the "Camel's Back", they dismounted, and after a brief rest, a few commenced the dangerous climb to the foot of the dome. The Scotchman arrived first. As the party assembled at the foot of an almost perpendicular rock, which is according to Prof. Whitney's calculation, at least 1,300 feet high, they looked with dismay at the journey before them.

Watkins stereoview #3051, The first tourists who made the ascension of the Half Dome.

Watkins stereoview #3051, New series, "The first
tourists who made the ascension of the Half Dome",
no date. According to Hank Johnston, Anderson is
the man on the left.

George Anderson then explained that as he climbed he had bored holes in the rock, and inserted iron eye-bolts. To these eye-bolts he had secured a rope, and those who would venture to climb, holding the rope with their hands and pressing the rock with their feet, might do so, providing their strength held out, in perfect safety. Two of the Englishmen said it might be good fun walking up walls, but they "didn't feel like trying". Anderson, however, with a cheer went ahead. There was a moment's hesitation, then, with a shout of enthusiasm, some of the crowd rushed forward to the rope. It was first secured by two young Englishmen named Robinson, who rapidly commenced the escalade. They were followed by another rejoicing in the name of Gammon. Then Mr. Moreland, an American, ascended, followed closely by West, a guide from the valley. These were allowed to work their way up, lest the rope should break. Mr. Liedig [actually: Leidig], of the valley, then went up, followed by Mr. Groom, another English tourist.

Anderson now looked like a fly crawling in the distance as he rapidly distanced his followers, shouting words of encouragement as they cautiously made their way upward. Sometimes they stopped, holding on convulsively to the rope and the eyebolt until they could continue up the dizzy height. Mr. Liedig turned sick, and with difficulty returned, swearing that for all the dollars in California he could have not gone further.

The spectators now waited nervously for those who had gained the summit, and were soon relieved from their anxiety by hearing the report of West's revolver, which was to be the signal of their safety. They now commenced to clamber painfully down the "Camel's Back" to the horses and those who had not cared to make the ascent. There being no trail, each had to make one for himself. Several had narrow escapes. Mr. Groom, after an involuntary roll of some fifteen or twenty feet, suddenly found himself looking over a precipice between two and three thousand feet deep into the valley below. He had slidden so far down the rock that without the aid of ropes, he could not return. To advance was almost certain death of a most horrible nature. None understood the terrible import of his cries for help. His sole support was a narrow ledge of granite to which he held on with the grim tenacity of a man who fights for life. But his strength could not last, and with a loud cry he rolled headlong down, down, as he believed, into eternity. But in throwing his arms forward as he fell they slid into a crevice by which he held on. Here he was able to take advantage of a slope in the rock, and with the calves of his legs and his hands he worked himself downward to a firm footing. He afterward reached the base of the mountain in safety. We think that one, at least, of these Englishmen will remember the ascent of the South Dome.

Soon after this incident George Anderson and the adventurers who had followed him returned safely. Three cheers were given and the party commenced the descent to the valley. Anderson has performed a feat which has scarcely a parallel in any country. A subscription has already been opened for his benefit in the valley in order to enable him to build a secure staircase for those who will in future ascend the Dome under his guidance.

This San Francisco Chronicle article was widely reprinted throughout the U.S. It was, e.g., copied in the St. Louis Daily Globe-Democrat, November 4, 1875, p. 2, the Chicago Sunday Times, November 7, 1875, p. 10, the Milwaukee Daily Sentinel, November 17, 1875, p. 5, the Daily State Gazette, Trenton, New Jersey, November 25, 1875, p. 1, and The Farmers' Cabinet, Amherst, New Hampshire, December 29, 1875, p. 1.

The Dundee Courier & Argus (Dundee, Scotland), copied the Chronicle article on December 6, 1875, under the title "Perilous Adventure of a Scotchman", alluding to Anderson's Scottish ancestry.

Watkins' stereoview used in this paragraph may have been taken on October 16, 1875, or several days later. See also Watkins' stereoview #3050, with the same capture ("The first tourists who made the ascension of the Half Dome") but with only five people. I thank Dennis Kruska for bringing those Watkins' photos to my attention.


A shorter account of the October 16 ascent, based on an article from the Sonora Union Democrat printed on October 30, 1875, appeared in the Sacramento Daily Record–Union in November:

Sacramento Daily Record–Union, November 2, 1875, p. 1

A Perilous Feat.—The Sonora Democrat of October 30th relates this incident:

The summit of the South Half Dome in the Yosemite valley has at last been attained, a Scotch sailor named Anderson having climbed the precipice, a distance of 1,300 feet, by means of spikes and ropes, accomplishing one of the most perilous feats on record. The ascent was made on the 15th of September [actually, on the 12th of October], and on the 16th [October] half a dozen tourists successfully reached the dizzy hight. They found an area of about 100 acres on the summit of the dome and say that a magnificent view can be obtained from the height. Last season an English tourist attempted to reach the top of the Dome, and failed. He then offered $500 to any one who would accomplish the feat and arrange it so that he could follow. There is but one chance left for an adventurous man to eclipse Anderson's feat, and that is for some one to reach the "Tree in the Niche", a pine which projects from a cavern or platform 2,000 feet from the valley on the sheer face of El Capitan.

The San Francisco Bulletin, November 11, 1875, p. 1, has an additional sentence in their version of the article: "A staircase will be erected, so that all may ascend in safety, and another feature will thereby be added to the attractions of the valley". The article was also reprinted in the Friends' Intelligencer, Philadelphia, on December 25, 1875, p. 704, and probably in other U. S. newspapers.


Notes added:

Note 1: For an independent description of the "first tourist ascent" of Half Dome, see a note in the Snow's Hotel register from October 16, 1875.

Note 2: Newspapers articles only gave us the last names of the participants in this ascent. Additionally, Snow's Register has revealed initials for some of them, but even that was not enough to identify any of the climbers with certainty. We would never know anything about those "tourists" if it weren't for Mark Ashley of Lemoore, California. In the summer of 2009, he was gathering information about the once flourishing "English Colony" in Hanford, Tulare County (now in Kings County). He was particularly interested in William and James Robinson, two brothers and active members of the Colony. In the course of his study Mark came across a booklet written by Lilias Robinson, William's wife, giving an account of couple's summer excursion to Yosemite in 1882. This slight (only 37 pages) and very rare book was printed in London about a year after the trip. According to the book, Lilias and William had reached the Big Tree Station, today's Wawona, on August 24, 1882. Lilias' entry for the next day, August 25, contained the most valuable clue. She described an encounter of two Half Dome veterans:

Our Trip to the Yo-Semite Valley and Sierra Nevada Range
By L.N.R.R. [Lilias Napier Rose Robinson]
J. Martin & Son, printers, London, 1883, p. 11

I was very glad when the sun rose... The air in the mountains was most deliciously fresh and invigorating. The first part of our drive [from the Big Tree Station to Yosemite Valley] was very steep, and the driving rather difficult as the road was very narrow, and overhung a good deal. Just before we reached the eleven mile station, we met a band of Kink Indians[!], one of whom carried on his back an immense eagle all bound and tied up... The man in charge of the station was an old Yo-Semite guide, and he recognised W[illiam] as having been one of the party who made the first ascent of the South Dome; he has now become a trapper, and he showed me some fine skins of the brown and cinnamon bears which he had shot. The rest of our drive was all down hill and we reached Inspiration Point about five p.m....

James Shaw Robertson in about 1907
James S. Robinson
in about 1907 (from a photo in
Kings County Museum)
The above paragraph clearly identified William Rose Robinson, an Englishman from Hanford, California, as one of the climbers who had ascended Half Dome on October 16, 1875. It was then fair for Mark to assume that William's younger brother, James Shaw Robinson, was William's companion on the mountain. When I later got access to Snow's Register, Mark's assumption proved correct: the Robinson brothers' signatures in the Register featured initials W. R. and J. S.!

Indirectly, Lilias' book also helped finding the true identity of another climber, "Mr. West, a guide from the Valley" (see the Chronicle article). The man in charge of the Eleven Mile Station on the road from Wawona to Yosemite at the time of Lilias' trip was one John Wesley Wood, also known as "Wes" or "West". Thus, "Mr. West" was actually a familiar Yosemite character, Wes Wood.

William Rose Robinson (~1854-1885) was the eldest boy in the family of Lady Julia Elizabeth (Thomas) Robinson and Sir William Rose Robinson, a civil servant in India. At the time of his Half Dome ascent William was about 21 years old. He got his education in England (Haileybury College and the Royal Agricultural College at Cirencester), and probably arrived in the U.S., with his brother James, in 1872. The brothers spent some time in New York, then in Mendocino and San Francisco, and finally settled in Mussel Slough country, near what would later become the town of Hanford (Tulare County), probably in 1875. There, they would become involved in farming and cattle raising. William made a brief trip back to England in the summer of 1881, to marry Lilias Napier (1859-1938), the youngest daughter of Hon. William Napier. William died of peritonitis in September of 1885, at the age of 31. He is buried at a local cemetery in Hanford.

James Shaw Robinson (1855-1945) was a year or two younger than William. From 1869, until his trip to the U.S., he attended Harrow School. He was 20 years old at the time of his Half Dome ascent. In November 1880, when he was 25, James traveled to England to marry Julia Elizabeth Barkworth (aka Lily, 1859-1884). They had a daughter born in Hanford, Ethel Muriel Robinson (1881-1958). Lily died of pneumonia several years later, and is buried in the Hanford cemetery. In April of 1888, James remarried. Ethel Elizabeth M'Calmont (1862-1937), from a wealthy British M'Calmont family (or McCalmont/MacCalmont), became his second wife at a wedding in the Episcopal Church in Hanford. They had two children, Margaret Edith Robinson (aka Bimmie, 1889-1980), and James Leslie Douglas Robinson (1895-1911). In December of 1897, James Shaw Robinson and his surviving siblings renounced the use of surname of "Robinson", and adopted the original family surname of "Robertson". From that point on, our climber James is known as James Shaw Robertson. In about 1902, James and his family returned to England where both of his daughters got married. James lived in The Vache, a historical manor at Chalfont St. Giles in Buckinghamshire until his death on the Christmas Day of 1940. Many of James' direct descendants are still living in the U.K., with family names of Aylmer-Hall, Spandring, Wheeldon, Robotham, and Vivian. One of James' great-granddaughters, Mrs. Penny Giorgi, lives in California.

Englishman "Gammon", mentioned in the Chronicle article, may have been Edwin Gamman (~1840-1913), a London tea buyer and merchant. His signature from the Snow's register is shown below. Mr. Gamman arrived to San Francisco on Sep 29, 1875, aboard the British steamer Oceanic from Yokohama. Several other passengers from the same ship, including Mr. Groom (see below), traveled to Yosemite together, where they happened to witness Anderson's historic first ascent. Groom and Gamman then decided to repeat the feat on October 16. Edwin Gamman would have been about 35 at the time. He was one of many children of Mary Ann (Matthews) Gamman and Robert Gamman, a wealthy coal merchant from London. Edwin remained unmarried, and died in London in 1913. In his will, he left almost £ 20,000 to his unmarried younger sister Lydia Ann Gamman, with whom he had shared his household.

Edwin Gamman's signature

yosemite guide Wes Wood
This man on Watkins photo
#3050 is probably Wesley Wood
who was about 44 years old
at the time of the climb.

Another British climber in the party, Mr. Groom, was probably Samuel Robert Groom (~1849-1901), a son of a British merchant in Jamaica, Thomas Groom. This Mr. Groom, who apparently preferred his middle name Robert, was about 26 years old at the time of the Half Dome ascent. His law education culminated at Middle Temple (London) from where he was called to the bar in 1879. In 1883, he married an American born actress and vocalist, Mabel Nellie Renard-Moody (or Moodie). In 1886, the family moved to the Straits Settlements where Robert was a successful solicitor and barrister-at-law in Singapore and Malacca. There is some resemblance between one of the persons on Watkins stereoview #3051 and a caricature of S. R. Groom sketched by one of his fellow lawyers in the 1890s. S. Robert Groom died of consumption in Kuala Lumpur in 1901. He was survived by his wife and one son. They returned to England. Mabel Groom died in 1919, during the Spanish flu pandemic. The son, with a long name of Harold Lester Robert Joseph Groom, studied to become an electrical engineer. For his gallantry during the First World War, Harold was awarded the Military Cross in 1916, and the Distinguished Service Order in 1918. In 1925, Harold married Elsie Muriel Taylor. Harold died in Chelsea, London, in 1967, at the age of 80, but I don't know if he had any descendants.

John Wesley Wood (~1831-1905), was born in Illinois, and probably came to California at an early age. In some sources his last name is listed as "Woods". He lived most of his life close to Yosemite or in the Valley itself. At the time of his Half Dome ascent he was about 44 years old, and was working as a part time guide in Yosemite Valley. In the 1870 and 1880 Yosemite censuses, his occupation was listed as butcher. Other sources show him operating a meat market in the Valley for George Meyer of Big Meadow. In the mid 1880s, Hutchings described him in the following way: "An open-faced and kindly-hearted hunter, who makes the Eleven Mile Station his lonely abiding-place both winter and summer..." In spite of his kindly-hearted character, Mr. Wood may have been involved in killing of a native American, known as Lame George, in a quarrel at his Station in July of 1887. However, a jury in coroner's inquest acquitted him. Wes Wood died in the county hospital in Mariposa in February of 1905, due to heart failure. According to a newspaper article, he was survived by a nephew and niece in Illinois.


Oct 1875: Sarah Dutcher — First female ascent

Ascenders: Anderson, Sarah Dutcher, Galen Clark

Miss Dutcher of San Francisco was the first female who ascended Half Dome. It doesn't appear that any newspaper article from 1875/76 reported that feat. However, at least two indirect but independent accounts make no doubt that the credit belongs to her. An early (and first?) mention of her achievement comes from James M. Hutchings. He has the following brief note in his book printed in 1886:

In the Heart of the Sierras, by James M. Hutchings, Chapter 26

[Anderson's] next efforts were directed towards placing and securely fastening a good soft rope to the eye-bolts, so that others could climb up and enjoy the inimitable view, and one that has not its counterpart on earth. Four English gentlemen, then sojourning in the Valley, learning of Mr. Anderson's feat, were induced to follow his intrepid example. A day or two afterwards, Miss S. L. Dutcher, of San Francisco, with the courage of a heroine, accomplished it; and was the first lady that ever stood upon it...

In 1912, Julius Charles Birge published his traveling memoirs under the title The Awakening of the Desert. He talks about his several trips to the Sierra, and his friendship with Galen Clark and John Muir. Unfortunately, he doesn't give a date of his visit described below. This might have been in October or November of 1875, or more likely in the spring of 1876. Note that he describes Anderson as a ship-carpenter, not a sailor.

The Awakening of the Desert, by Julius C. Birge, The Gorham Press, Boston, 1912, Chapter 29, pp. 406-407

...It was still later when I first visited Muir's haunts in the Yosemite [in 1876?]; George Anderson, a Scotch ship-carpenter had spent the summer in drilling holes into the granite face of the upper cliff of the great South Dome, driving in it iron pins with ropes attached. Two or three persons were tempted to scale with the aid of these ropes the heights, which are nearly a perpendicular mile above the valley. I, too, was inclined to make the venture. I proceeded in advance, followed by Anderson, who had in tow a young San Franciscan with a connecting rope around the young man's waist. It was a dizzy but inspiring ascent of my pursuers. While spending an hour upon the summit, I discovered on its barren surface, a lady's bracelet. On showing it to Anderson, he said: "You are the third party who has made this ascent. I pulled up a young woman recently but she never mentioned any loss except from nausea[!]". Returning to Merced, I observed a vigorous young woman wearing a bracelet similar to the one I had found. The lady proved to be Miss Sally Dutcher of San Francisco, who admitted the loss and thankfully accepted the missing ornament. A letter to me from Galen Clark states that he assisted in Miss Dutcher's ascent, Anderson preceding with a rope around his waist connecting with Miss Dutcher; also that she was certainly the first and possibly the last woman who made the ascent. These ascents are now forbidden, but the natural attractions of the State of California have drawn to it a vast revenue from transient nature lovers...

Who was Miss Dutcher?

Very little is known of Miss Dutcher's life and career. This article adds a few details unknown until now, but most information about her life seems to be lost forever. Her full name was Sarah Louisa Dutcher, but she preferred Sallie. She was a daughter of Moses A. Dutcher and Sarah Burchall (or Burchill), and born in Tasmania, probably on September 14, 1844. Her mother Sarah, a weaver from Bethnall Green near London, arrived to Australia in January 1841, at the age of 18, one of about 190 female convicts expelled from England. Salie's father, Moses Dutcher, was banished to Australia in 1839 by a British court, for his participation in an uprising of Canadians against British rule of Lower Canada, known as the Patriots' War. Many U.S. citizens participated in this rebellion, and court documents from the time of his capture, identify Moses as being from Brownville, New York. However, it is not excluded that he was a recent immigrant to the area. Miss S. L. Dutcher, detail of a larger photo.
Sarah L. Dutcher
In the 1880 Census, Sarah stated that both of her parents were born in England. According to Samuel Snow's narrative, published in Cleveland in 1846, when other rebels were pardoned and returned to their homes "only one, Moses Dutcher, who married in VDL [Tasmania], seems to have voluntarily stayed in the colony". A genealogical source shows Moses and Sarah married at All Saints Church in Swansea, Glamorgan (Tasmania), in 1844. Little Sarah was probably their first-born. Another daughter, Jennie E. Dutcher (or Jane) was born within the next few years. Just before Christmas of 1849, Moses, his wife, and two daughters boarded the British bark "Eudora" on her way to California. However, seventy days later, when the ship reached the port of Honolulu, the Dutchers made a change in their plans: rather than to continue the journey, they decided to stay at least temporarily in Hawaii. In about May of 1851, Moses opened a boarding house at the corner of Hotel and Fort streets in Honolulu. Two sons were possibly born in the tropical paradise: Moses A. Dutcher (Jr) and Edwin M. Dutcher, but I only have indirect evidences for that statement. The father of the family, Moses (Sr), probably died in Hawaii before 1855.

The Friend, published in Hawaii, announced that "Misses Jane and Sarah Dutcher" had left Honolulu aboard bark Comet for San Francisco, on May 24, 1862. An article in San Francisco's Daily Evening Bulletin of June 12, 1862, shows the arrival of Comet on June 11th, with "Miss S. Dutcher and Miss J. E. Dutcher" amongst about 20 names in the passenger list. Sarah was less than eighteen years old when she reached California. In mid and late 1860's, other members of Sarah's family found their way to San Francisco, including her widowed mother. (Her mother would remarry, and then die in 1870, at the age of 44). Between 1868 and 1871, Sarah is apparently focused on fighting her way up into the social elite of San Francisco, and some newspaper reporters are paying attention. For example, Sarah attends the Carnival Ball at the Pavillion in 1868 ("Miss Sallie Dutcher was a very charming peasant girl, in a blue skirt, white waist, coquettish apron and hair neglige"), the Merry Mascquerade of the Skating Club in 1871 ("Miss Sarah Dutcher was a peasant girl, and wore a costume which must have temporarily ruined her yeoman father"), and the "Reunion" of the Ivy Social Club in 1871. However, after 1871, her name disappears from social chronicles.

Sarah's sister Jennie got married in January 1871, but she died three years later in San Francisco. Sarah's other siblings (or relatives?), Edwin and Moses Dutcher, moved out of town, and by the summer of 1874, Sarah is alone. While in early San Francisco directories she was always listed as "Sarah L. Dutcher", from mid 1870s this description changes to "Miss Sallie L. Dutcher", or simply, "Miss S. L. Dutcher". In April 1874 and March 1875, her occupation is listed as "saleswoman with Carleton E. Watkins", but she was associated to Watkins from at least 1871. Her stay in Yosemite during the summer of 1875, when she made her Half Dome ascent, was probably related to her involvement in the photography business. Shirley Sargent in her Pioneers in Petticoats, published in 1966, describes Sarah as "a San Franciscan who sold Watkins' photographs in the valley". No source for this statement was given. Her Half Dome climb happened shortly after her 31st birthday. In April 1876, Sarah's job description in the San Francisco Directory is "photographic retoucher", but in March 1877 and April 1879, she is again a "saleswoman with Carleton E. Watkins" (there was no listing for her in the February 1878 Directory).

The following, somewhat unflattering description of Sarah was printed in the New-York Tribune, in June 1880: "A brace of female agents of photographic views infest the hotels [in the Yosemite Valley]. One is well known to every dweller in the valley by the familiar name of 'Sally'. She has spent many Summers there, and great is the power of her tongue. To clinch a bargain, she will chat, flirt, dance, drive with you—a most 'amoosin' and versatile girl. The old resident of the valley remarks to the newcomer, with a knowing wink, as she passes: There goes Sally; that gal is the smartest salesman in Californy. She'll euchre a Jew pawnbroker, and the way she lays out them English swells is a caution. She's a credit to the State, and the valley's proud of her. Sally is a tall, lithe, remarkably self-possessed young woman, with a piercing black eye, and a face brim-full of vivacity. Her rival is a blonde of the 'strawberry' type, with yellow hair, who wins much custom by a pertinacity which would put to shame a Niagara Falls hackman. And how the two rivals do stab each other's reputations with innuendo and sarcasm: how they disparage each other's wares and make bitter gibes on mutual blemishes in beauty and honesty!" [The use of ethnic stereotyping in the above segment was by no means an uncommon practice in newspapers of that time].

In April of 1880, Miss Dutcher runs a gallery connected to Watkins, and is listed in the San Francisco Directory as "agent for Watkins' photographic views, 8 Montgomery [Street], room 1". Sarah's name is also shown in the Pacific Coast Directory for 1880-81. Containing Names, Business and Address, published by L. M. McKenney & Co., in 1880: "Dutcher Mrs S L, photographic views, 8 Montgomery". Actually, she was not a 'Mrs' yet. During the spring and summer of 1880, her newspaper ads have appeared daily in several San Francisco papers, for example, in Chronicle and in Daily Evening Bulletin. Here is an example of the ad from the San Francisco Chronicle of May 13, 1880, p. 2:

Newspaper ad for Miss S. L. Dutcher's photographic gallery

The ads stopped running in August 1880, probably because—as it will be seen below—Miss Dutcher has found a new and different interest in her life.

There are some uncorroborated suggestions in Carleton Watkins' biographies of an alleged romantic attraction—if not an outright liaison—between him and Miss Dutcher, in spite of (or perhaps, because of!) a denial in a letter that Watkins wrote to his wife Frances shortly after their marriage in 1879. However, before Watkins' marriage, Sarah did accompany him on at least one of his photographic trips to California mountains. Two Watkins' photos of Sarah from a trip to Calaveras Big Trees were probably taken in summer of 1878. One of the photos is deposited in the California Digital Library, and another one, from the same series, taken inside the Pavillion built on a stump of a tree, is reproduced in Carleton Watkins. Photographs from the J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles, 1997, p. 79. A frequently used close-up of Sarah (see the upper right corner of this highlighted box) is actually a detail of a larger photo, which could be found, e.g., in The Tourist in Yosemite by Stanford E. Demars, University of Utah Press, 1991, p. 70. Source or author of the photo are not indicated in the book. Shirley Sargent in her Pioneers in Petticoats credits this photo to Carleton Watkins, but doesn't provide any further detail.

Sarah was not enumerated in the 1870 Census, but in the Census of 1880, taken in San Francisco in June, Sarah is listed as "Sarah Dutcher, age 33, single, born in Australia from English parents, working in a 'photograph gallery', home address 139 Fourth str." It was by no means unusual for that era that people would present themselves in census data somewhat younger than they actually were. Sarah's true age at the time of the census was probably 35, not 33. She was still single, but that was going to change soon. On December 18, 1880, she married Frederick Clark, a recently appointed full time employee of the U.S. Geological Survey.

Evening Bulletin, San Francisco, December 20, 1880, p. 3, col. 4

Marriages. In this city, December 18, 1880, by Rev. Dr. Scott, Frederick A. Clark, U.S. Geological Survey, to Sarah L. Dutcher.

Marriages

CLARK—DUTCHER—In this city, December 18 [1880], by Rev. Dr. Scott, Frederick A. Clark, U.S. Geological Survey, to Sarah L. Dutcher.

Another newspaper note a few days later shows them in Hotel Del Monte, in Monterey Bay, probably on their honeymoon.

Among things that could have brought Sarah and Frederick together, it is easy to identify two: They both knew and esteemed Watkins, and they both shared love for mountains. Sarah clearly was an adventurous outdoorswoman, and Frederick, in his capacity of a topographer, had made trips and climbs all over California and the South West.

This was the first marriage for Frederick, born in La Porte, Indiana, forty years earlier. He worked as surveyor and topographer with Clarence King, George Wheeler, and Ferdinand Hayden since 1864. Find more about Frederick Augustus Clark in the Appendix.

According to the San Francisco Directory of 1881, "Clark Frederick A., topographer [with] U.S. Geological Survey, 320 California, room 13" was residing at San Francisco's Occidental Hotel. Sarah is not listed, but it is quite possible that she was also living in "Occidental". However, in 1882, the Clarks must have left San Francisco, and Clark dropped from the USGS payrol. There is a possibility Frederick took a new job in Oakland in 1881 or 1882. On Dec 17, 1883, the San Francisco Bulletin identifies him as "Major F. A. Clark", an "Assistant Division Superintendent of the Central Pacific Railroad in Oakland". By the second part of 1885, Frederick certainly resides in Oakland, but his marriage to Sarah is in jeopardy: San Francisco and Oakland newspapers of December 15, 1885, had brief reports of an impending divorce suit brought by Frederick A. Clark against Sarah L. Clark. The Daily Alta California of Jan 9, 1886 prints the following short news from Oakland: "Fred A. Clark has been granted a decree of divorce from Sarah L. Clark". Frederick will stay in the Bay Area until about 1904, and then move to New York. However, nothing is known about Sarah Dutcher Clark after January 1886. Did she move to another region? Did she use her skills in photographic business to earn for living? What name did she use? Where and when did she die? We may never know.


Nov 1875: John Muir

Ascender: Muir

John Muir was a regular correspondent for the San Francisco Bulletin in the mid 1870s. His articles describe his many trips across the Sierra. No one was more ready and eager to follow Anderson than Muir. However, in 1875, tensions in the triangle John Muir — Elvira Hutchings — James Mason Hutchings were at their height (Elvira was James' much younger wife). Therefore, Muir voluntarily stayed out of Yosemite, until a news finally reached him that the Hutchings had moved permanently from the Valley to San Francisco (on November 1). Muir then hastened to the Valley, and in the first days of November made the climb himself. The first part of Muir's article describing Anderson's conquest of Half Dome was reproduced earlier on this page. Here is the second part, talking about Muir's own expedition:

Daily Evening Bulletin, November 18, 1875, p. 1

South Dome
Its Ascent by George Anderson and John Muir—Hard Climbing but a Glorious View—Botany of the Dome—Yosemite in Late Autumn.
(From our special correspondent).

Yosemite Valley, November 10, 1875.

...On my return to the valley the other day I immediately hastened to the Dome, not only for the pure pleasure climbing in view, but to see what else I might enjoy and learn. Our first winter storm had bloomed and all the mountains were mantled in fresh snow. I was therefore little apprehensive of danger from slipperyness of the rock, Anderson himself refusing to believe that any one could climb his rope in the condition it was then in. Moreover, the sky was overcast, and solemn snow-clouds began to curl and wreath themselves around the summit of the Dome, and my late experiences on icy Shasta came to mind. But reflecting that I had matches in my pocket, and that a little firewood might be found, I concluded that in case of a dark storm the night could be spent on the Dome without suffering anything worth caring for. I therefore pushed up alone and gained the top without the slightest difficulty. My first view was perfectly glorious. A massive cloud of a pure pearl lustre was arched across the valley, from wall to wall, the one end resting upon El Capitan, the other on Cathedral Rocks, the brown meadows shadowed beneath, with short reaches of river shimmering in changeful light. Then, as I stood on the tremendous verge overlooking Mirror Lake, a flock of smaller clouds, white as snow, came swiftly from the north, trailing over the dark forests, and arriving on the brink of the valley descended with godlike gestures through Indian Canyon and over the Arches and North Dome, moving rapidly, yet with perfect deliberation...

Notwithstanding the enthusiastic eagerness of tourists to reach the summit of this Dome the general views of the valley from here are far less striking than from many other points, chiefly because of the foreshortening effect produced by looking from so great a height. North Dome is dwarfed almost beyond recognition. The splendid sculpture of the arches is scarcely noticed and the walls on both sides seem comparatively low and sunken. The Dome itself is the most sublime feature of all Yosemite views, and that is beneath our feet. The view of Little Yosemite Valley is very fine, though inferior to one obtained from the base of Starr King; but the summit landscapes towards Mounts Tyell [Lyell!], Dana and Conness are very effective and complete. When the sublime ice-floods of the glacial period poured down the flank of the range over what is now Yosemite Valley, they were compelled to break through a dam of domes... South Dome was first to emerge from the icy waste, burnished and glowing like a crystal... Its entire surface is covered with glacial hieroglyphics whose interpretation is the great reward of all who devoutly study them.

Before closing this letter I might say a word or two concerning the botany of the Dome. There are four clumps of pines growing on the summit representing three species... all three repressed and storm-beaten. The Alpine spiraea grows here also, and blooms bountely with potentilla, ivesta[?], erigeron, criogonum, penstemon, solidage, and four or five species of grasses and sedges, differing in no respect from those on other summits of the same elevation.

I have always discouraged as much as possible every project for laddering the South Dome, believing it would be a fine thing to keep this garden untrodden. Now the pines will be carved with the initials of Smith and Jones, and the gardens strewn with tin cans and bottles, but the winter gales will blow most of this rubbish away, and avalanches may strip off the ladders; and then it is some satisfaction to feel assured that no lazy person will ever trample these gardens. When a mountain is climbed it is said to be conquered — as well say a man is conquered when a fly lights on his head. Blue jays have trodden the Dome many a day; so have beetles and chipmucks, and Tissiack will hardly be more conquered, now that man is added to her list of visitors. His louder scream and heavier scrambling will not stir a line of her countenance...

J. Muir

Muir's letter was reprinted in other newspapers, e.g., in the Chicago Daily Tribune, on December 23, 1875, p. 3, and the St. Louis Daily Globe-Democrat, on December 21, 1875, p. 3. Muir also used this text in some of his books later, but he made slight changes. For example, while the newspaper report above says "Anderson himself refusing to believe that any one could climb his rope in the condition it was then in...", a revised version in The Yosemite reads "Anderson himself tried to prevent me from making the attempt..." There are no further references to this 1875 ascent in Muir's journals or letters gathered in the John Muir Papers collection at the University of Pacific.

It should be noted with sadness, that although Muir had found some pine trees at Half Dome, the top of the Dome is almost treeless now, probably due to human activities. However, the top is not totally barren. Some shrub species and several herbaceous plants are still present.


Jun 1876: Second female ascent

Ascenders: Anderson, Lizzie Pershing, James Hutchings, Ira Folsom, W. P. Carter

One of Half Dome ascents in 1876, attracted lots of attention. The San Francisco Bulletin reprints an account of the ascent from the Stockton Herald.

San Francisco Bulletin, June 26, 1876, p. 4

South Dome Ascended.—On the 21st instant a party of tourists made the ascent of South Dome, in Yosemite Valley; and what makes the feat more famous, one of the party was a lady, and what makes it still more interesting to chronicle, she was a newspaper correspondent. There were four tourists in the party, all of whose names we were unable to learn, but the lady's name was Miss Lizzie R. Pershing [should have been: Lizzie K. Pershing], and she is a correspondent of the Pittsburgh, Pa., Gazette. Miss Pershing is the second lady that has ever accomplished this undertaking, and it is but fair to state that but very few of the sterner sex have considered the glory of having climbed the dome a recompense for the dangers to be braved. After making an extraordinary climb on the ragged mountain side, the dome itself is reached, the ascent of which requires one to climb, by the aid of ropes, up an almost perpendicular wall, without steps or foothold other than nature has made, a distance of 900 feet. These ropes extend from one staple in the rock to another, and the distance between the staples is from ten to fifty feet, according to circumstances. The fatigue of this perilous undertaking did not seem to seriously affect this brave little lady, for she returned from the valley to-day, looking as fresh and fair as if she had not accomplished a feat that makes her famous.—Stockton Herald.


A slightly different account was printed in the Christian Advocate later in the year:

The Christian Advocate, New York, September 21, 1876, Vol. 51, No. 38, p. 297

Miss Lizzie K. Pershing, daughter of President Pershing, of the Pittsburgh Female College, during a visit to California won quite a reputation as a letter-writer for several leading journals. She has recently returned home, and it appears that she has attained the title "Heroine of the South Dome" of the Yosemite Valley, supposed to be six thousand feet high—a perpendicular wall. For many years persons have sought unsuccessfully to climb up, until a Scotch sailor succeeded last October. By drilling holes in the steepest part of the rocks, and putting iron pegs, and standing on one spike while he drove in another, he succeeded in getting up the steepest part. He then fastened a rope around these pegs, and it forms a ladder. By climbing up a long way on the hands and knees you reach what they call "The Saddle", and from there go up by a single rope the dizzy height—930 feet; and from thence the Dome is more easily reached, and you can walk right to its edge, and look down a straight wall 5,500 feet. This perilous feat was performed by Miss Pershing.


Lizzie Pershing described her Half Dome climb in a well written letter to the Pittsburg Telegraph. She identifies several people on that trip: James Mason Hutchings, George Anderson, and an unnamed "guide".

J. M. Hutchings confirms that he was one of the people in Miss Pershing's party. In his In the Heart of the Sierras, Chapter 26, he wrote: "In July, 1876, Miss L. E. Pershing, of Pittsburgh, Pa. [her initials were actually L. K., and the date was June 21], the writer [Hutchings], and three others found their way to the top..."

Who was Miss Pershing?

Lizzie K. Pershing was 24 years old at the time of this ascent. She was the eldest child of Rev. Israel C. Pershing and Charlotte L. Canan (Pershing), and was born in Pennsylvania on April 4, 1852. Her father was the President of the Pittsburgh Female College. The College catalogue lists Lizzie as a "general assistant" in 1873, and a Vice President in 1884. It appears that Lizzie had left Pittsburgh in 1874, for a two-year stay in Santa Barbara, California, for health reasons ("rheumatism"). In a newspaper article published in the Louisville Courier-Journal in 1876, Lizzie is described as having "brown eyes and brown hair hanging in two long braids down her back, and the prettiest hand and foot in California. She is a brilliant writer, fine elocutionist, and is blessed with a dry, droll manner, and has a conundrum or story for every occasion. She is a Methodist and a scholar. She is known by her pet name—Percy". I couldn't find anything about her association with the Gazette. Her story "A trip to the Geysers", was published in the National Repository, Vol. 1, April 1877, pp. 315-320. It describes her journey, in the spring of 1876, to the Geysers in Northern California with one Mrs. Pressall [or Pressell?]. This story does not mention her Yosemite climb later that year.

She married William C. Anderson, "of the Pittsburgh bar", in 1884, and used the name Lizzie Pershing Anderson after that. They lived in Wilkinsburg near Pittsburgh. They didn't have any children. William died on November 25, 1910. Lizzie was still alive in April 1937, but died shortly after. Lizzie, and General John J. Pershing, who led the American Expeditionary Forces in World War I, were distant relatives (third cousins).


1876-77: Anderson builds stairway to the clouds... and more!

Seeing all the enthusiasm that his Half Dome ascent has stirred, Anderson must have began considering ways of turning that interest into money early on. He first had to upgrade the ropes, and make them more secure. Hutchings' daughter, Gertrude, about eight or nine years old at the time, witnessed an early Anderson's attempt to replace the old ropes. Seventy years later, in a letter to Elizabeth Godfrey, a Yosemite Museum secretary, Gertrude Hutchings recalled:

...Along the old plank walk between Hutchings' old corral to Sentinel Bridge, Anderson stretched five separate strands of baling rope. With another strand he went along the 975-foot length knotting the five strands together with a sixth strand and a good sailor's knot a foot apart—a convenient space for climber to grasp as they made the ascent. The knotted rope was coiled, tied together put on a pack mule, and carried to the shoulder of the Dome. Here Anderson shouldered it himself, packed it to the top of the Dome, unloosed it, fastened one end to an iron pin in rock on the summit, slid it down, uncoiling and fastening it to other iron-pin eyebolts he had placed on his first ascent as he went.

Gertrude doesn't specify the year of the rope upgrade, but she could have been referring to the year 1876. Her letter is preserved in the Nature Library, Yosemite Museum, Yosemite. I used the transcription from The First Ascents of Half Dome by Hank Johnston, Yosemite (Magazine), Vol. 65, No. 1, Winter 2003.

Shirley Sargent, in an article in the Modesto Bee on October 30, 1975, attributes the following description of Anderson to Gertrude Hutchings: "A brawny, powerful man with tattooed arms, a splendid specimen of manhood". Shirley ads: Anderson's strength was astounding. Once he lifted a boulder weighting 234 pounds, and another time he carried a 525-pound section of iron bridge.

The rope worked for people with athletic abilities, but Anderson had other ideas too. Several newspaper articles describe him working on, or thinking about other possibilities. He is incorrectly called "John Anderson" in some reports:

Mariposa Gazette, June 3, 1876, p. 3
(probably written by J. M. Hutchings)

Yo Semite Correspondence

...The most important enterprise here is that of George Anderson's trail and stairway from the valley to the top of the south dome. Mr. Anderson is a man of energy, and is entitled to credit for the perseverance he is displaying in the construction of this important project. The stairway will be about 2,000 feet long, fastened by bolts in the rocks on the side of the dome, in the most secure manner, and will be arranged with wings or arms extending all the way to each side, making it convenient and comfortable for visitors to rest and view the wonderful scenery below. When once at the summit or top of the dome, the visitor can behold the most magnificent picture of the valley and surroundings ever yet painted or sketched by the artist...


Cincinnati Commercial, August 24, 1876, p. 4; also
Daily Register, Wheeling, West Virginia, August 26, 1876, p. 1, and
Daily Alta California, September 9, 1876, p. 1


Anderson's cabin at the foot of the Dome, near the 'saddle'. (From an article
in The Pacific Rural Press, San Francisco, June 18, 1881).

A Stairway to the Clouds.
John[!] Anderson, the first man to make the ascent of the great South Dome in the Yosemite Valley, is a quiet young Scotchman, who lives hermit-like in a small house near the saddle of the dome. Here he dreams and experiments, coming occasionally down into the valley, where he is the object of eager curiosity to travelers, who whisper one to another, "There's Anderson", "There's the sailor who climbed the Dome". But few travelers have ever ascended to his workshop in the mountains, and few people know that he is now busily constructing a staircase of one thousand steps, which he intends shall form an easy pathway to the clouds. These steps are of wood, riveted together by iron, and will be fastened by bolts in the rock. Next year, perhaps, tourists can walk up a thousand-foot stairway, instead of hanging to a thousand-foot rope. In time, Mr. Anderson hopes to have an elevator running up and down the chasm, and his ambitions extend even to a train of cars, which he is now perfecting—cars which will run up a perpendicular wall.—[Source:] Letter in the Louisville Courier-Journal.


The Philadelphia Inquirer, August 31, 1876; also
Liberty Tribune, Liberty, Missouri, October 13, 1876, p. 2:

Personal
John[!] Anderson, the first man who ascended the great South Dome in the Yosemite Valley, lives alone in a small house near the saddle of the dome. He is hard at work constructing a staircase of a thousand steps on the dome. He hopes to have an elevator running in time, and is also working on a model of a steam car that shall carry passengers up the almost perpendicular wall.


Bulletin, San Francisco, September 6, 1876, p. 1

Summering in the Sierra

(From our own correspondent)

Yosemite Valley, August 28, 1876.

This forenoon I had the pleasure of meeting George Anderson, the indomitable cragsman, the brave climber, of firm nerve and eye, who was the first to set foot on the great South Dome. He has been hard at work all summer hewing timber for a stairway up the hitherto inaccessible curving summit of the dome, which he hopes to have completed by the first of June next [1877], so as to be available for the main flood of next year's travel. It will be about 800 feet in length, with about thousand steps, securely railed in on both sides. The side timbers will be eight inches wide by four in thickness, and firmly bolted on the solid rock. And, inasmuch as the general slope of the rock on which the stairway will be laid is only about equal to that of ordinary house stairs, there will be nothing dangerous in the ascent, nor anything of a clinging, clambering character. When, however, we take into consideration the fact that the few low little steps leading to the upper stories of hotels are regarded as so exhausting as to require the modern cage elevator, the grand old dome will seem about as inaccessible to most people as before...

...I only want to remark here, that standing on their head is not the best position from which to see anybody, still I would advise every one to make the ascent of Tissiack, for not to mention the glorious circumference of landscapes seen from its summit, the joyous leafy valley outspread a mile below, and far beyond, alp, and forest, and rolling granite seas. On these vast aerial thrones one always receives lasting impressions of an utter isolation from all the known ways of the world, leaving the soul free to expand and blend with fountain nature, as if one had died and gone to another star...

John Muir

[In the rest of the article, Muir talks about the first ascent of Mount Starr King a few days earlier, by by one of his friends. He only identifies the friend as "Mr. Short", a San Francisco banker and stockbroker, but it is clear that he talks about George Bayley (often spelled 'Bailey'). Muir concludes: "To Anderson belongs the honor of first standing in the blue ether above Tissiack; and to the dauntless San Francisco Short belongs the first footprint on the crown of Starr King". According to Muir, Bayley was accompanied by a young lawyer allegedly from San Francisco (E. S. Schuyler). A year later, on August 23, 1877, unexplainably unaware of the Bayley-Schuyler ascent, a party consisting of George Anderson, James M. Hutchings, and John B. Lembert reached the top of Mt. Starr King via Southeast Saddle, and were dismayed to find a man-made summit cairn there].


Once a Week [Magazine], London, 1877 (unknown volume, p. 96)

A Perilous Ascent.—The most formidable mountain, perhaps, in the world, the South Dome of the Yosemite Valley, in California, has not only been climbed by a Scotchman named Anderson, but it is to be made practicable for travellers of exceptional nerve by a stair constructed up the back of the Dome by this enterprising climber. "No description", says a correspondent at San Francisco, "can convey any adequate idea of this singular mountain... The walls on either side of the valley are for five miles a close succession of bare granite rocks, cut down with smooth face as if by a knife, and rising sheer from the valley to the average height of 4000 feet. The fact of a perpendicular wall, three-quarters of a mile high, of bright grey granite, can scarcely be grasped by the mind, and must be seen before it can be realized. Imagine the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral multiplied a hundred times and cloven in half — the one side a precipice of 6000 feet from top to bottom; the other side forming a perfect quadrant for 1500 feet from the top, as smooth and bare and regular as the side of a ball — and some faint idea can be formed of Anderson's terrible feat".


The Huron Expositor, January 11, 1878

Probably the largest and highest rock in the known world is the South Dome of Yosemite... No man ever trod the top of this dome until last year... Last year, however, after thousands of dollars were spent [in previous attempts?], several persons found their way to the top of the dome, and this summer two sheep were discovered browsing on the hitherto inaccessible peak. Mrs. A. J. Murphy, the widow of a late hotel proprietor in the valley, writes as follows under date of November 11th [1877?; 1876?]:

"John[!] Anderson is building stairs up the top of the South Dome. You can go up now by holding on to a rope, but it is quite a tiresome trip. A few ladies in the valley have made the ascent, and I am sorry I did not attempt it... Strange to say two sheep found their way to the top of the South Dome this summer, a dam and her lamb. How they ever got there is more than any one can tell. They found bunch grass and shoots to eat, but no water—only the dew that fell on the dome at night. Anderson was going to carry them up some water when I left".—[Source: an 1877(?) issue of] Virginia (Nev.) Enterprise

Similar accounts were printed in the Daily Democrat, Sedalia, November 28, 1877, the Daily Arkansas Gazette, Little Rock, December 20, 1877, and the Wheeling Daily Register, January 1, 1878, p. 3. Instead of "Mrs. A. J. Murphy... writes as follows", the Daily Star, Marion, Ohio, December 22, 1877, uses "Mrs. A. J. Murphy... writes to a lady in New York".

The story about a dam and her lamb could have been a practical joke that Anderson played on unsuspecting valley visitors. However, James M. Hutchings, in his In the Heart of the Sierras (1886), gives some credibility to the story: "Two sheep, supposed to have been frightened by bears, once scrambled up there; to which Mr. Anderson daily carried water, until they were eventually lost sight of. Their bones were afterwards discovered side by side, in a sheltered hollow".

Note that some small animals do live at the top of the Dome: lizards, ground squirrels, wood rats, pikas, and even yellow-bellied marmots made their homes there.


1877: Photographer on the Dome

Ascenders: Anderson, James Hutchings, S. C. Walker (Summer? 1877)
Ascenders: James and Florence Hutchings, Florantha Sproat, two other ladies, a man (October 1877)

George Anderson on Half Dome in 1877
George Anderson on Half Dome, 1877

In the summer of 1877, the first(?) photographer made it to the top of Half Dome. It wasn't an easy task to bring heavy photo equipment up the steep incline. Hutchings and Anderson helped Walker, and Anderson posed on two overhanging rocks at the top, which are still favorite attractions for amateur photographers even today. Here is how Hutchings describes the event, in one of his typical long sentences:

In the Heart of the Sierras, Chapter 26

...In 1877 Mr. Anderson, after assisting Mr. S. C. Walker, the photographer, and the writer [Hutchings], to pack up all the photographic apparatus necessary for taking views from its summit, deliberately placed upon a large flat rock, projectingly, on the margin of the precipice, and stood upright upon it while the photograph was taken; one of his feet being over, and beyond the edge eleven inches, as presented in the accompanying view, taken at that time. Although unsteadied and unsupported, not a nerve or muscle quivered.

Later that year, Hutchings made yet another trip to the Dome, this time with his daughter Florence Hutchings, then 13. His mother in law, Florantha Sproat, and his future wife (second), Augusta Sweetland may have been in the same party.

In the Heart of the Sierras, Chapter 26

...In October following [1877], six persons, among them a lady in her sixty-fifth year [Florantha Sproat], and a young girl, thirteen years of age (a daughter of the writer) and two other ladies, climbed it with but little difficulty, after Anderson had provided the way. Since then very many others have daringly pulled themselves up; and enjoyed the exceptionally impressive view obtained thence...

S. C. Walker worked as photographer in Yosemite in the late 1870s. He took several pictures of Anderson on Half Dome in 1877. Some of those were later published as stereoviews, under different labels. According to Paul A. Hickman, from Arkansas State University, Walker's negatives were probably used to produce stereoview prints by M. M. Hazeltine (1877), S. C. Walker & Gustavus Fagersteen, "Successors to M. M. Hazeltine" (1877-81), and Gustavus Fagersteen (1881-90). Check this stereoview from Hazeltine's series "Yosemite Valley, California". Note that makers of negatives were rarely credited by publishers of stereoview prints, and Walker's name does not show up on this photo.

Selah Clarence Walker (1851-1897), was born in Providence, Rhode Island, and came to California with his family as a little boy. He grew up in Campo Seco, Calaveras County, where his father was a miner. At eighteen, Selah was in San Francisco, and declaring his profession as "photographer" in the 1870 Census. He was 26 when he joined Hutchings' Half Dome party in 1877. In November that year, he married Lillian E. West of Garotte, Tuolumne County. They settled in Groveland, but Selah continued working in Yosemite over summers. By 1880, the couple had two children, Selah Eugene Walker, and Clarence Reid Walker. Several years later the entire family moved to San Francisco, where S. C. Walker began working as a printer and an assistant manager for the "Elite Photograph Gallery" on Market Street. After a divorce in 1890, he progressively became more and more despondent. He committed suicide by taking a large dose of cyanide on October 27, 1897, at the age of 45.


Ascenders: Anderson, John Muir, Thomas Magee [Sr.]

Little is known about this ascent that apparently happened in July 1877. The only sources I have are two short paragraphs in the Yosemite Tourist and in the San Francisco Chronicle, published eighteen years later. Both articles are presented in Part Two. The Tourist lists three ascenders, and dates the climb on July 9, 1877:

Yosemite Tourist, Yosemite Valley, July 9, 1895

Eighteen years ago today, John Muir, of glacial fame, Thos. Magee [Sr.], one of well-known pioneers of San Francisco and the late Geo. G. Anderson, the latter acting as guide, ascended the Half Dome. Mr. Thos. Magee, Jr., then a mere boy, was left at the Anderson cabin, near the dome, for he was too small to attempt so perilous a feat... The cabin [was] about a half mile from the dome. In the good old days, when those so inclined could reach the top of the dome, this cabin was the starting point. Many, too, would come here and remain over night and then be ready for the climb in the morning...

John Muir Chronology shows Muir on an "excursion in Utah as Bulletin correspondent" starting in May 1877. His brief visit to Yosemite after the Utah trip is mentioned in a letter to Jeanne Carr, dated July 23rd, 1877. Muir wrote: "Dear Mrs. Carr: I made only a short dash into the dear old Highlands above Yosemite, but all was so full of everything I love, every day seemed a measureless period. I never enjoyed the Tuolumne cataracts so much; coming out of the sun lands, the gray salt deserts of Utah, these wild ice waters sang themselves into my soul more enthusiastically than ever..." A remark in Muir's handwriting on the cover of his "May-July 1877" notebook (#20) confirms that Magee was his partner in Yosemite that summer: "Excursion into Big Tuol[umne] Can[y]on from head with Magee. 1877". However, there is no mention of the Half Dome ascent (or the Tuolumne trip) in the text of Muir's notebook.

Thomas Magee, around 1900
Thomas Magee,
around 1900

Thomas Magee Sr. (1840-1902), was a noted mountaineer in the 1870s and 1880s. During the 1877 ascent, he was about 37 years old. He is listed in Hittell's Hand-book of Pacific Coast Travel, published in 1885, in a section about mountain climbing: "California has no club of mountain climbers; and a few of her citizens have had the opportunity, as well as the inclination, to spend much time in the study of nature at high elevations... The most noted mountain climber of the State is John Muir; and among the men who are known to have spent much time in the mountains for pleasure or study are J. G. Lemmon, botanist, George Bailey [Bayley], Thomas Magee, Sydney Smith, Jr., James M. Hutchings, Galen Clark, George Davidson, A. F. Rodgers, Ebenezer Knowlton and John Swett". An article in the Scribner's Monthly, Aug 1873, Vol. 6, pp. 441-445, written by Magee, describes his climb to the top of Mount Shasta. Thomas was a friend and a frequent companion of John Muir since they first met in Yosemite in the summer of 1871. Influenced by Muir, Magee was an early conservationist (see his article The Preservation of Our Forests, in Overland Monthly and Out West Magazine, Vol. 19, June 1892, pp. 658-661).

Magee came to San Francisco in 1859, from Belfast, Ireland (after a short stay in New York), and began working as a printer. In 1866, he became editor of Carter's Real Estate Circular. Eventually, Magee became a real estate dealer himself, and bought the Circular. He edited it continuously from 1867 until his death. A Washington Post biographical note published on November 5, 1899, for his sixtieth birthday, calls Magee "the most athletic millionaire on San Francisco's tax list". Thomas Magee died in Santa Barbara in 1902, and his four sons took over his real estate business and the Circular.


Ascenders: Henry Crowell, George Worthington

Henry Crowell struggled with a debilitating and life threatening illness in his youth, and his wealthy family sent him West to travel and gain strength. In 1874, on one of his trips, he met another young man, George Worthington, who was also on a quest for health. For the next three years the lads were to spend much time together. On their second trip to California, in 1876/1877, they were ready for a perilous feat: a climb to the summit of Half Dome. An account of that event was written more than seventy years later, when Henry and George were already dead. The author of the book "Breakfast Table Autocrat", Richard Day, must have heavily relied on family stories about the ascent, and it is no wonder that after that many years, details got forgotten, imagination was used to fill the gaps, and accuracy took back seat. Indeed, George and Henry did not need to bring their own spikes or "clotheslines", because Anderson's rope was still in place and well maintained in 1877. However, in spite of such blunders, I believe George and Henry made it to the top, and deserve to be mentioned in these chronicles.

Breakfast Table Autocrat: The Life Story of Henry Parsons Crowell,
by Richard Ellsworth Day, Moody press, 1946, pp. 73-74:

...By the middle of May, 1877, [Henry and George] had equipped for scaling Half Dome in Yosemite Valley. Stout clotheslines, a bag of rugged spikes, and a short-hafted sledge apiece, were the chief scaling aids. It makes one dizzy to think of such simple means for conquering the cloud-piercing slopes of the great rock. As they rode through the bee pastures along the Merced River, the Maricopa Flower Carpet was in full glory. No Persian rug could vie with it. The boys listened to the muffled roar of the waterfalls, leaping at a bound for hundreds of feet, fluttering in the wind like a filmy pennant. They gazed upon the mile-high eminences along the river, and came to Mirror Lake, nature's reflecting pool for Half Dome.

On the wind-swept summit of Half Dome, they gazed for a long time at the vast assembly of granite titans, beginning with Glacier Point on the south side, hanging dizzily over its three thousand-foot drop. They looked at El Cajon on the north side with its sheer slope to the valley floor. In the hotel that night, the mountaineers heard the boys' account of their venture. They would not believe the tale until the next day they found the ropes and spikes, like a spider filament soaring cloudward, just as Crowell and Worthington had left them...

Henry Parsons Crowell (1855-1943), was 22 at the time of his ascent. He would become a successful businessman (e.g., founder of the Quaker Oats Company) and a philanthropist. His life is well documented on the Web and in books. George Worthington (1854-19??), was just few months older than his Half Dome companion, Crowell. One of several children in the family, he was named after his father, a merchant and banker in Cleveland, Ohio, who founded the Geo. Worthington Company. He enrolled in Brown University, but due to frequent absence did not graduate. He was not particularly interested in his father business. In 1896, he moved from Cleveland to Old Bennington, Vermont, where he still lived during the 1930 Census. Date of his death is unknown to me. His only son, George Worthington, Jr (sometimes called George Worthington, 3rd), born in 1890, got his AB from Yale, and then returned to Cleveland where he re-engaged in the family company.


Ascenders: Abbie Crippen, Frank Ferree

Abbie Crippen was the eldest of four Crippen sisters. Her father Joshua Crippen died in 1870 in Merced. In March of 1877 Abbie's mother married John Barnard, a new owner of the Sentinel Hotel (later Yosemite Falls Hotel) in the Valley. Yosemite then became a new home for Crippen sisters, and all four enjoyed hiking and other outdoors activities.

Abbie's Half Dome ascent in 1877, or early in 1878, is indirectly confirmed by Walter Gore Marshall, who visited the Valley in June 1878. In his book, Through America, published several years later, he talks about a "trophy" that his friend has found atop Half Dome, something that originally had belonged to Abbie. Marshall identifies Abbie as "Miss Bernard", but neither is the spelling correct (should have been Barnard), nor has Abbie ever used anything but her father's last name (Crippen) until she became Mrs. Childs in 1884. But back to Marshall's story. Here is how he introduced Abbie to his readers: "Miss Bernard, hotel owner's daughter, had acquired a reputation as a daring climber of mountains, for she had been to the top of the South Dome, and had safely come to the bottom again" (p. 379). Marshall then described the following funny episode:

Through America; Or Nine Months in the United States, by W. G. Marshall, London, 1881, Chapter 19, p. 380:

Abbie Crippen
Abbie Crippen

It was getting late, so that I had begun to be anxious. [My friend] suddenly burst in upon our party assembled outside the hotel. He looked wild and scared; his skin was peeled—it was evident he had not been idle since we had lost sight of him in the morning. He told us he had been up the South Dome. "What, up to the top?" we all exclaimed in one breath. "Yes", was the reply.—But no, we could none of us believe it, not even Miss Bernard herself, who, already the vanquisher of that bold, inaccessible-looking mountain, would never believe that it had been scaled in one day, and that, too, by an Englishman, and all by himself! Without more ado my friend produced indisputable evidence that he had actually accomplished the ascent, for he took out from his pocket a certain curious trophy which he had brought away with him from the summit, and this was nothing less than a piece of one of Miss Bernard's stockings, the young lady in question having left behind her, when she was last up the mountain, a sample of this portion of her wearing apparel, which she had fastened on to a low stunted pine that grew out of the hard rock at the very top of the precipice. So my friend had cut off part of the stocking—six square inches of which he found clinging to the tree—and brought it down to show the young lady herself, as the best proof he could give, that he was indeed no gay deceiver...

Read more about Marshall's friend (Arthur Clarke) and his day-hike from the Valley to the top of Half Dome, in a section below.

From Marshall's text we know that Abbie's Half Dome visit happened before June 1878. The register of Snow's Hotel, which I checked in the summer of 2012, revealed more. An entry dated June 3, 1877, reads: "Frank E. Ferree, Miss Abbie Crippen, 10 AM bound for South Dome". Another note was added later: "Returned 4 PM". Thus, it appears that the "trophy" described in Marshall's book (one of Abbie's stockings) had stayed attached to that pine tree atop Half Dome for almost a year, unless Abbie made yet another ascent later in the season. There is, however, no mention of her possible second climb in 1877 or 1878 in Snow's Register. (She apparently made another Half Dome ascent, but that was many years later). Accompanying Abbie during the June 3rd trip was Frank Ferree, a newly hired book-keeper at Barnard's Hotel. Frank did make another Half Dome climb that same summer, in mid-July of 1877, but that time he went without Abbie. More about Frank's second ascent will be added shortly.

Abbie Crippen (1860-1889), was still 16 at the time of her June 1877 ascent. She was the eldest of four children (all girls) of Joshua D. Crippen, a Sheriff of Mariposa County, and his wife Adelaide Frances (Weldon) Crippen. Abbie's younger sisters were Katie Crippen (1863-1896), Fannie Crippen (1864-1925), and Effie Crippen (1867-1881). Joshua died in 1870, and Adelaide remarried in the Spring of 1877. Her second husband, John Kirkpatrick Barnard, has just purchased a hotel in Yosemite Valley. A newspaper article described Abbie as a "bright handsome girl, vivacious and warm hearted". During Abbie's Yosemite years, when not in the mountains, she was selling Fiske's and Watkins' photos in her step-father's hotel. She also worked in J. J. Cook's "photographic room" in the Valley. This may have caused some tensions between her and Sally Dutcher, because they were competing for the same clientele. Many other Abbie's trips to Yosemite backcountry were mentioned in Snow's Hotel Register. On one of those trips, in August 1883, one of participants was Hiram Little Childs (1847-1917), then publisher of Bodie's newspaper The Free Press. In October of 1884, a wedding was celebrated in the Valley, and Abbie became Mrs. Childs. Four and half years later, a news came from Tacoma, Washington, where the Childs have relocated, that Abbie had died, at the age of 28.


Ascender: Henry W. Herbert

The only known account of this ascent is a note in the book A Souvenir of New Hampshire Legislators, for the year 1897, pp. 72-73. A biography of one of elected representatives says (emphasis mine):

Henry William Herbert, [representing Rumney],
Democrat, a member of the Committee on Industrial School, was born at Rumney, October 2, 1842. He was educated in the common schools and at Boscawen Academy. He enlisted in the 6th N. H. Regiment, but being under age and unable to obtain his father's consent, he could not enter the service. He entered a broker's office in Boston and remained there during the war. He then returned to Rumney and followed the occupation of farming until 1871, at which time he was appointed station agent on the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad at that place, which position he held until January 1, 1887. Mr. Herbert has traveled quite extensively in Canada and throughout the United States, and is one of the very few persons who ever stood on the summit of the South Dome in the Yosemite Valley. He was a Representative in 1894, and has been Chairman of the Rumney Board of Selectmen for five years; Tax Collector five years, and Deputy Sheriff two years.

However, the date of the climb was not given. Snow's Hotel Register to the rescue! According to the register, Mr. Herbert was a member of a party that stopped at Snow's on Tuesday, October 30, 1877, the last group to reach the hotel during that year. The party came on horses, and was guided by George Carter (Yosemite Valley). It consisted of "H. W. Herbert of Rumney N. H., Mrs. E. W. Cowles of Coventry, Effie and Fannie Crippen of Yo Semite, S. G. Clarks of Victoria, Australia, and Fred. R. Guilliams", the last gentleman probably from Iowa. There is no mention in the register on what was the goal of their trip. If they indeed were heading to Half Dome, we don't know if Carter or anybody else from the party had accompanied Henry to the the summit. Two Crippen sisters, Fannie (age 12 at that time) and Effie (age 10), were probably too young for such a climb, but others may have tried.

Henry William Herbert (1842-1947), was one of seven children in the family of Samuel and Lydia Herbert. His father was a farmer, than a lawyer and lawmaker in Rumney, New Hampshire. Rumney was at that time a quiet hamlet with 1100 inhabitants and two churches. Just east of the town there is a lofty 3 miles long ridge, some 2800 ft high, called Stinson Mountain. Perhaps that is where Henry gained his hiking and climbing skills. Henry spent most of his long life in Rumney. At 19, he married Susan Darling, and they had six children, three of which survived to adulthood. It is not known what brought Henry to California in the fall of 1877. He was 35 years old at the time of his Half Dome climb. Henry died at the age of 104, and is buried in the family plot in Rumney Depot Cemetery. He was survived by his son Frank Allen Herbert (1875-1966). Some of Frank's grandchildren are still alive. I wonder if they would have any additional information about Henry's climb.


1878: Englishman, Astronomer, Botanist

Ascender: Arthur Clarke

In May of 1878, Walter G. Marshall left England for a three-months trip to the United States. One leg of the trip was to be a visit to Yosemite Valley. Marshall didn't go alone. With him, aboard the Cunard steamship "Scythia", and throughout the journey, was one of his college friends. Marshall's 1878 trip, as well as one of his later visits to the United States, are described in his book published in London in 1881, under the title Through America. An account of a trip from San Francisco to Yosemite, June 20 to June 30, 1878, is given in Chapters 16-19 of the book. It contains a segment that is particularly interesting for this work: Marshall's friend, who is only identified as "C——", climbed Half Dome on June 29, 1878.

It took some detective work to establish true identity of Marshall's climbing friend. In the first chapter of the book, Marshall introduces him as "my college friend C——", but he carefully avoids revealing anything else about "C——", as if the friend had insisted to remain anonymous. Instead, on hundred pages in the book, he is simply referred to as "my friend" or "my fellow traveller". However, towards the end of the book, in a single paragraph that could have been inserted later, Marshall names (by mistake?) his friend as "A. N. Clarke".

There is another independent evidence to support that disclosure. Port records from New York confirm that "W. G. Marshall, age 25, gentleman", and "A. N. Clarke, age 25, student", shared a cabin in "Scythia". Marshall had studied at Winchester College, and at Oxford. I didn't find any student with initials "A. N. Clarke" at Winchester, but it was easy to find Clarke's record in the book Alumni Oxonienses: A. N. Clarke, from Leeds, got his MA at Oxford the same year (1875) as Marshall, and his full name was Arthur Noble Clarke.

Marshall briefly describes circumstances related to Clarke's ascent, then allows Clarke to give a detailed first-person account of the climb. Here is what Clarke had written:

Through America; Or Nine Months in the United States, by W. G. Marshall, London, 1881, Chapter 19, pp. 380-383:

[abridged]

Leaving Bernard's [Barnard's Hotel] on foot at 10 a.m., I reached Snow's at 12.10 p.m., had luncheon there, and remained till 1.30. Then, mounting to the top of the Nevada Fall, I struck off by a trail to the left, which led me over a shoulder of the great South Dome till I came to the foot of a conical-shaped rock, called the Little Dome, which I found I was obliged to climb... This successfully scaled, I had to descend again... to a dip between the two Domes, the huge granite mass of the South Dome now looming majestically above me. The rope of the Scotchman now appeared to view, running down straight for 960 feet from the top of the curve, close to the vertical face of the mountain... The sections of this rope are not all equal, some being not more than twenty feet in length, while one or two sections near the top of the curve are nearly 100 feet in length, and, being quite loose, thus oblige one to describe a considerable arc. Where the sections are short you go up like a monkey, hand over hand, close to the rock. The lower portion of the precipice was very steep, having an angle of 10 degrees from the vertical, and this part had to be ascended without any rest. From this point the grand curve of the Dome began, the granite lying here and there in immense overlapping, concentric slabs—like gigantic armour-plates, the 'plates' in this case being three to five feet thick, difficult to climb over, even with the aid of the rope. Over these I had to scramble as best I could; but there were a few cracks in the granite which enabled me to obtain an occasional foothold, and, leaning with my back against the almost vertical wall of rock, rest awhile and contemplate the view...

The gymnastic performance now began to get easier as to the grade; but the fatigue caused by the rarity of the air, and the heat of a blazing Californian sun, glaring as it did directly in my face, caused me to inwardly rejoice when I reached the summit. That this is a much less difficult—though not the less dangerous—climb than it looks, is certain, and provided the soundness of the rope be guaranteed, a lady can without difficulty make the ascent. But her chief embarrassment would be the 'monkey' performance, if she went up in ordinary attire.

Having rested for a few moments on the top of a stony couch... the next thing to do was to quench thirst, which had become simply unendurable. To this end I made my way to a small snow-field lying about 200 yards off. Then I devoted an hour to the view, sitting down on the edge of the precipice and dangling my legs over, having first lit my pipe that I might enjoy the view the better...

The descent I found considerably easier than the ascent, for the rope had now been fully tested, and all that it was necessary to do was to cling firmly to it, and let myself down hand over hand... At Snow's... I was given a tallow candle, to light if it should get too dark during my descent into the valley. But it was not brought into requisition, for I reached Bernard's[!] at 8.18 p.m., having been away from the hotel just ten hours and eighteen minutes.

This was an excellent total time for a day hike on foot from the Valley, considering many stops that Arthur Clarke made along the way. Read the complete text of his well written and interesting description.

Arthur Noble Clarke (1851-19??), the eldest son of Dr. Thomas Clarke ("physician, surgeon, and apothecary"), born in December 1851 in Leeds, Yorkshire. He had three younger siblings: George E. Clarke, Florence L. Clarke, and Bernard L. Clarke. He enrolled in Wadham College, Oxford University, in November of 1870, studied natural sciences, got his BA in 1875, and MA in 1877. During his visit to Yosemite with Marshall, he was 25 years old. According to British census data, in 1881, he was in London, studying medicine. In the late 1880s, he helped putting together two essays that his father had written ("The Fate of the Dead", and "What is the Soul? and what becomes of it?") It appears that Arthur was still alive during the 1911 England Census, probably unmarried, living in Eastbourne district, in Sussex. I don't have any information about him after that date.


Ascender: William Pickering

A note in the Appalachia, Boston, Vol. 2, No. 1, June 1879, p. 93, describing previous year's activity of the Appalachian Mountain Club, says: "On December 11, 1878, at the Seventh Corporate Meeting, Mr. W. H. Pickering read a paper describing an ascent of the Half Dome, in the Yosemite Valley, illustrated by views of the Valley and its special points of interest". The note was referring to William Pickering, one of founders of the Appalachian Mountain Club, and later a noted astronomer. The lecture was describing his "recent" trip to Yosemite, perhaps in 1878, but a precise date of the ascent was not given. While Pickering's original report is probably lost, the following autobiographical note in MIT Technology Review has a few sentences about that climb:

Technology Review, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Vol. 18, Cambridge, 1916, p. 307:

...I had always been fond of mountain climbing, and among other things ascended the Half Dome in Yosemite Valley by means of a rope. For 900 feet the ascent had to be made hand over hand, supporting a considerable portion of my weight at the same time on my feet. The ascent was continuous, as there were no intermediate ledges on which one could rest. In fact, the only ledges were inverted! Comparatively few living persons have been on the summit, since the rope was removed many years ago.

When William Pickering died in 1938, several of his friends recalled his Half Dome climb. In an obituary, in the Publications of the Astronomical Society of the Pacific, Vol. 50, No. 294, pp.122-125, 1938, Leon Campbell wrote: "Professor Pickering was a great traveler and mountaineer... He not only scaled the heights of Half Dome in the Yosemite, and El Misti in Peru, but also one hundred other peaks in various parts of the world". E. P. Maartz, Jr., wrote in another obituary: "In 1928 Professor Pickering made a trip to southern California and this proved to be his last to that region... One thing he was most eager to do... was to revisit the Yosemite Park. He had been there once before, fifty years previously in 1878, as a young man of twenty; and on that occasion had climbed the Half Dome. He was one of the first men to do this, and one of the very few who climbed the Half Dome at all before the iron spikes and chain guards were installed... He was a great climber in his younger days, and was always a lover of the mountains and the great outdoors..." (Popular Astronomy, Vol. 46, No. 6, June-July 1938, pp. 299-309).

The above text confirms 1878 as the year of the climb. In late July that year, William traveled to Cherry Creek, near Denver, Colorado, to observe that year's total eclipse of the sun (July 29). California newspapers then report his arrival to San Francisco on the overland train on August 8, 1878. He was accompanied by his sister-in-law, Lizzie (Mrs. Edward C. Pickering). They must have stayed at the west coast for about a month, and then, on their way back to Boston, made a stop in Cincinnati on September 13. This further narrows down the dates of William's visit to Yosemite and Half Dome to the second part of August or to early September of 1878.

William Henry Pickering (1858-1938), was 20, and still a student at MIT in the summer of 1878. Later that year he published a note on his observation of the eclipse with two polariscopes and a polarimeter in the Monthly Notices of the Royal Astronomical Society, London, Vol. 39, No.2, December 13, 1878, pp. 137-139. William stayed at MIT as staff after graduation in 1879, but later worked at Harvard Observatory, where his older brother Edward was Director. In 1884, William Pickering married Anne Atwood, and two of their three children survived him: William T. Pickering (born 1887, died in Los Angeles, in 1952) and Esther Pickering, later Mrs. Murton S. Harland (born 1889, died in 1987 in Alberta, Canada). In August of 1898, W. H. Pickering took a series of photographic images of Saturn at Harvard's Arequipa Observatory, in Peru, and discovered Saturn's ninth moon Phoebe (the work was published in March 1899). He was the author of many articles and books on astronomy. He died in Mandeville, Jamaica, in January 1938, where he lived since 1911, and where he had his private astronomical observatory.


Ascenders: John Lemmon, E. W. Baker

John G. Lemmon was a noted California mountaineer, and a self-taught botanist. Here is a fragment from a trip report describing his Half Dome adventure. Full report is also available.

Lemmon, together with John B. Lembert (Lemmon calls him "Lambert") had reached the foot of Anderson's Half Dome route. Lemmon was slightly injured earlier in the day when he fell from his horse, and he didn't think he would be able to continue up the ropes. They were ready to return back to the valley, when another man appeared...

Pacific Rural Press, September 14, 1878, pp. 162-163

Scenes in the High Sierra back of Yosemite.—No. 1
(Written for the Press by J. G. Lemmon).

...My regret at being placed hors de combat just that morning, of all the 10 weeks almost constant riding from Santa Barbara to and about Yosemite, now became agony. I gathered souvenirs of flowers and prepared to return, when a voice hailed us from over the east dome, and a man came stalking down the slope with a sure and easy tread that told the strength of his limbs and the resolution of his heart. He proved to be Mr. E. W. Baker, a cool headed carpenter from Alameda, accustomed to walking on dizzy heights. Hastily inquiring he learned my state, but declared I must go up with him if he had to carry me on his back. Taking from a bush near by the rope that Anderson used for the purpose, about 15 feet long, he tied one end about his waist and I placed the other about mine.

Promising to let me down from any point if my strength failed me, he grasped the rope and ran up nimbly as a cat, hand over hand, and I slowly followed. Raising the rope out from the rock causes your pressure against it with nailed boots to be increased in the ratio of your lifting power. So firmly your feet cling to the glassy rock, and clink, clink, the iron nails ring out upon the air, keeping time with the regular reaching of the hands up, up, up!

Occasionally, clefts, in the rock afforded foothold enough for a moment's rest and a survey of the glorious scenery unveiling below... [From the top of the attendant dome] the voice of Lambert came cheerily: "You are doing well!" "About half-way up!" Later came the shout, "Three-fourths of the way!" My back seems to be separating in the region of the lumbar vertebra and pains shoot through the part keen as knife-thrusts, but I keep on grasping the rope with trembling, weakened fingers. "Only three pins more!" I gasp and feel an inclination to halt, and turn around giddily. "Depend more upon the little rope," Baker calls down, in a firm voice, "I can pull you up bodily." "Almost up!" shouts Lambert from the far depths. "One more pin!" Baker creeps up to it, sits down above it, and pulls me up over the cape stone. The perilous climb is done; the crown of "Tis-sa-ack," is reached, over 10,000 feet, nearly two miles above the level world! Rest followed, while the hearts throbbed and the eye wandered. 0, what a glorious vision lies out-spread, of gorge and dome, turret and pinnacle!

Exploring the top of the half dome, we found it a convex, elliptical table of rock, depressed several feet near its center by a cross valley, and extending about 100 rods in a direction nearly northeast and southwest. The north wall, seemingly so smooth and clean cut from below, is really notched and much diversified. On its outer point, the visor of "Tis-sa-ack's" crown, stands a flagpole of fir about 15 feet long, and eight inches in diameter at its base, upheld by piled rocks. Though seldom registering myself in the usual places, I thought it proper to pencil my name here with the thirty or forty only others that have ventured up this fearful steep... Only one tree has taken root on the summit. This stands near the edge at the western side of the ellipse and is about two feet thick at base and 25 feet high, with the peculiar, many-branched, depressed limbs of the Pinos monticola found on such highths...

The descent of "Tis-sa-ack," by the small rope swinging almost vertically over the side, was scarcely less fearful though taking less time, and was performed by backing down. Often the foot failed to find a resting place and you dangled in air until reaching over and beneath the concentric layers your iron boot-naila caught upon the inner rock...

(Read the complete article from the Pacific Rural Press).
Lemmon's trip to the top of Half Dome is mentioned directly or indirectly in several other sources.

Report of the Botanist, J. G. Lemmon, in
Second Biennial Report of the California State Board of Forestry for the Years 1887-1888, Sacramento 1888.

pp. 84-85

...But few have enjoyed what it was the writer's privilege to experience while exploring the upper heights of Yosemite. I climbed Anderson's rope (now both the rope and its intrepid maker in dust) to the top of South-Half Dome. Exploring its crown we found an ellipse of table rock about one hundred rods long, with but one tree maintaining its hold, as by an eagle's talons, to the wind-swept rock, two miles in vertical above the sea. Of course, it was the Limber-twig Pine [Pinus flexilis], over two feet thick at base, but only a few in height, with willowy branches that receded and swayed, self-protectingly, with every breeze...

After Lemmon's death in 1908, his collection of California plants and specimens, known as "Lemmon Herbarium", was transferred from Oakland to Berkeley, and many items were examined and listed in Prof. Smiley's book about the boreal flora of the Sierra. In the section about Rosaceae, subsection Holodiscus dumosus (p. 231), the author talks about various samples of spiraea shrub that he had examined while preparing the book, among them one specimen that was collected on the "summit of Half-dome, Yosemite, by Lemmon, on August 19, 1878". (See, A report upon the boreal flora of the Sierra Nevada of California, by Frank Jason Smiley, U. C. Publications in Botany, Vol. 9, University of California Press, September 1921).

More about the events that had brought the botanist to Yosemite in 1878, can be found in California's Frontier Naturalists, by Richard G. Beidleman, University of California Press, 2006. One section of the book is devoted to "J. G. Lemmon and Wife" (pp. 415-429). Beidleman's research reveals that in June 1878, Lemmon had arrived to Santa Barbara to "join a lengthy excursion to Yosemite". The party was to include several locals including Sarah Plummer, Lemmon's future wife. However, in the end, "six campers went, but Sarah was too weak to join them". We don't know who else, besides Lemmon, was in that group of "campers", but we know that Lemmon was the only one from that group that had reached the top of the Dome.

John Gill Lemmon, (1832-1908), was born in Michigan, and arrived to California in 1865, to recover from injuries sustained during the Civil War. He became interested in botany, and because of his mountaineering skills, was able to discover many new species of plants in remote parts of the Sierra. He was 46 years old when he climbed Half Dome. Two years later, in 1880, he married Sarah Allen Plummer, who would accompany him on many trips along the Pacific Coast, in the Sierra, and in the Rockies. From 1888 to 1892 the couple worked for the State Board of Forestry, John serving as botanist, and his wife as artist. In the 1890s, Sarah promoted the bill that eventually made the golden poppy California's state flower. Mt. Lemmon in Arizona is named after her. John died of pneumonia in Oakland, in 1908, and Sarah died in Stockton in 1923. They are buried in Mountain View Cemetery, Oakland, California.

I could not positively identify E. W. Baker. A photographer, Ellis W. Baker, worked in the Alameda county in the late 1870s, but according to Lemmon, his companion was a "carpenter from Alameda", not a photographer.


Lady Gordon Cumming, quoted already above, describes technique used in early Half Dome ascents in a letter reprinted later in Granite Crags (1884). On Saturday, May 4, 1878 (Chapter VI, in her book), she wrote [emphasis mine]:

Having thus made the ascent a possibility, Anderson's delight now is to induce enterprising climbers to draw themselves up by his rope ferry, the manner of proceeding being to keep one foot on either side of the rope, and, retaining a good grip of the rope itself, gradually to haul one's self up to the summit, there remain for a while lost in wonder at the grand bird's-eye view, and then climb down backwards.

It is all right so long as most of the stanchions stand firm and the rope does not break; but should this simple accident occur, there would not be the faintest possibility of rescue; indeed, it would be no easy task to recover the battered and mutilated remains of any poor wretch who might fall from that majestic dome. A leap from the summit of St. Paul's would be child's play in comparison. A man troubled with suicidal mania would find it hard to look down from a precipice a sheer fall of 5000 feet, and resist the temptation to cast himself down...

Two months later, on July 12th (Chapter XIII), she adds:

George Anderson, [who is] regarding the giant [Half Dome] with all the pride of a conqueror, frequently invites me to ascend [it] under his able guidance, but which I consider as a feat too dangerous to compensate for the risk...

And indeed, she left the Valley without ever climbing the Dome.


1879: Brave clergymen

Ascenders: Asa Fiske, John Allis, many others

Congressional tourism is not invention of our days. From June 7 to June 15, 1879, a Yosemite Sabbath-School Assembly was organized, and newspapers reported huge interest among clergymen for the meeting. Delegates from 23 states attended. Just in one train coming from the East, there were "one hundred and sixty-five of the party who intended visiting the great valley" (Daily Evening Bulletin, July 4, 1879, p. 4). The "Union Chapel" in the Valley was dedicated on this occasion. Galen Clark and John Muir made presentations to the assembly. Muir's speech about glaciers "inspired the crowded house with such enthusiasm that more than a hundred climbed the trail to Upper Yosemite Falls with the lecturer" (Daily Evening Bulletin, July 12, 1879, p. 2). Some of attendees were even more adventurous:

Daily Evening Bulletin, June 14, 1879, p. 3

Yosemite, June 14th.
...Excursions, semi-scientific and pleasure, are the order of the day. Rev. A. S. Fiske has led two parties of climbers to the summit of South Dome. Rev. J. M. Allis of the Occident has also made this ascent...

Fiske and Allis were Presbyterian ministers in San Francisco at the time of the Assembly. Asa Severance Fiske (1833-1925), was about 46 years old when he made those two ascents in 1879. He was born in Ohio, graduated in class of 1855 at Amherst College, and served as chaplain for the Fourth Minnesota Infantry during the Civil War. After the War, he held pastorates successively in Rockville (Connecticut), Rochester (New York), San Francisco, and Ithaca (New York), until he was eighty-four. He died in New Orleans. John Mather Allis (1839-1899), was 39 in the summer of 1879. Born in Quebec, Canada, he left for Troy, N.Y., at the age of 14. He graduated from Princeton in 1866, and from Union Theological Seminary in 1869, then served in Albany (New York), Lansing (Mich), and Anaheim (California). Between 1877 and 1881 he served at the Larkin Street Church in San Francisco. After a brief stay in Lafayette (Indiana), he got appointed a foreign missionary and assigned to Chile, where he died.


1879: New York Tribune correspondent

Ascenders: George H. Fitch, W. Henry Grant, Henry D. Robinson

In July 1879, an unnamed San Francisco correspondent of a New York paper made a trip to Yosemite Valley. There, he encountered two Eastern men, who—like him—had a prejudice against riding over the trails. They "struck hands, and formed a compact to do the place on foot". Their adventure in Yosemite was described a year later in the New-York Tribune:

New-York Tribune, June 27, 1880, p. 5
Ten Days in Yosemite
(From an occasional correspondent of the Tribune)

(...)
A Perilous Climb On South Dome.

We essayed first the easier trails—those to Glacier Point and the Vernal and Nevada Falls—and by the third day felt equal to more ambitious efforts. So we laid siege to South Dome—a peak which has a bad reputation, and which was wholly inaccessible until a few years ago. It is shaped like a sugar-loaf, sliced in half, the smooth flat side being toward the valley. The trail winds about the base, makes an immense detour, and emerges at the rear of the mountain. It is thickly wooded until it approaches the summit. Then trees and vegetation suddenly disappear; nothing is left but barren rock, looking like great masses of iron welded together, and seamed by overlapping folds, which give the mountain crown a close resemblance to the flank of a mammoth rhinoceros.

The summit rises directly from a narrow plateau, on which a place is soon reached where the trip ends for the lazy or timid. The path slopes away on either side, in long roof-tree style, for a thousand feet, then falls in a sheer precipice of three thousand feet to the valley below. Up the steep crown of the mountain, 900 feet in perpendicular height, which makes a spherical angle of about sixty degrees, is stretched a rope, formed of seven strong hemp ropes of the size of an ordinary clothes-line, knotted together at intervals of eighteen inches. It is fixed to the rock by iron staples every fifteen or twenty feet. The only danger lies in the giving way of a staple or the breaking of the rope, two casualties that could not readily occur, as the rope is frequently inspected by guides, and the staples seem to be clenched on the nether side of the mountain. To an active man or woman, not given to dizziness, the ascent is without much danger. Carefully working one's way hand over hand, the slack of the rope allowing a nearly upright position, one finally nears the summit and skips over the last one hundred feet by the aid of a single line.

A barren plateau of several acres is the foreground. The entire length of valley and can[y]on stretches away in front, so near that it seems you may call to the pigmy figures moving about a mile below you, and two miles away as the bee flies. Directly below, as you lie prone on the rocky ledge and peer over, is Mirror Lake looking like an artificial fish pond. On the left is the Little Yosemite Valley, with a spray-like fall in the dim distance, and at the back the shaggy-headed monster whose fastnesses are seldom disturbed is Cloud's Rest. Mountain peaks can't be enjoyed long, more's the pity. Ten minutes on a mountain top for a five hours' tramp is usually the rule. But in those minutes one may get a view of the valley which is unsurpassed from any other point...

At first it looked as if the anonymous autor of the article and names of his climbing companions would forever remain unknown. But a further research, and lots of luck, helped determining that the author of the article in the Tribune was George Hamlin Fitch of San Francisco. His two companions were Henry de Groot Robinson (New York), and William Henry Grant (Philadelphia). More information will be added shortly.

 

1879: Sea of livid flames: Storm atop the Dome

Ascenders: Mary and James Lawrence, James Hutchings, five other ladies and gentlemen

Sound of approaching thunders brings fears into hearts of climbers atop Half Dome even today. The following is an early description of a storm that caught a group of people still at the top of the Dome:

San Francisco Chronicle, Sunday, July 27, 1879, p. 1

Perilous Climb of the South Dome of the Yosemite
Terrors of a Summit Storm—A Lake of Fire—Olympian Thunderings...

[A group of climbers find a charming camp-ground by the side of the Merced, in the Little Yosemite Valley, two miles up from the Nevada Fall. They climb to the top of the Cap of Liberty on the first day. Back in camp, they "rest and skirmish hereabouts for a few days, every hour's exercise strengthening us for the glorious journey ahead"]

At 8 a.m. on one of these days we leave camp, pass portions of the walls of the Little Yosemite that have been polished by glaciers... We go over these moraines, and en route to the South Dome or Tissack call at George Anderson's cabin... We ride away up to the base of the great mountain. Then comes a long, hard hand-and-foot climb up into the saddle on the eastern wall... There yet remains nearly 1,000 feet of wall to scale. The only way to accomplish it is by a rope which is swinging down from out the heavens...

For us to make this ascent is a perilous undertaking, or rather overtaking. Away we go, not daring to gaze downwards, lest we lose our senses and be dashed into fragments. Finally we hear the avant-courier shouting, "Up in a balloon, boys", as he reaches and drags us up and over the edge, when, blinding our eyes with our hands, we rush back from the dizzy spot.

All are safely landed before any one turns attention to the surroundings, for there has been much anxiety. We find eight trees, four different kinds of pines, on the summit. There are numerous shrubs and flowers growing in the crevices, while lizards, grasshoppers and chipmunk tenant this isolated mountain... We count nineteen immense forest fires away below us... The sheep-herders are thus doing disastrous work, destroying timber and the beauty of landscape, and thinning the dense groves that shelter ice fields, making them become devastating floods upon being exposed to the full glare of the sun[!]

But what is this? Clouds are gathering about us. Heaven have mercy on us, for how will we ever descend if a storm head us off?... Belts of red and golden and dark purple clouds, indicative of the coming anger of the elements, gather around the setting sun. But he persistently forces his rays through them all till every bank of cloud and mountain chain, dome, pinacle, spire and crest is lighted up with brilliant glare. All around our very feet, and far about us as the eye can reach, is a shining sea of livid flames. Even the deepest black canyons are filled full of a lurid purplish red... We stand in ineffable terror gazing upon the fascinating panorama... The thunder renews its crashes from summit to summit, and re-echoes again and again adown the canyon's depths. The lightning flashes in livid lines about the cliff-sides through the flaming atmosphere... Renewing our courage, [we] hurry to the edge of the precipice, down which we are to swoop through the storm and perhaps in utter darkness...

The lightning darts its fiery shafts all through the air about our feet as one after another swings into the perilous hand-clinging journey on the rope of the 1,000-foot precipice. We literally ride upon the storm [which has now broken below us], almost treading upon the lightning and grasping it in our hands... The rains falls fast, the wall is dripping with trickling water, the rope-knots are soaking, our naked hands are blistered (for our gloves were too slippery in the wet), and we only make the landing in time to save our lives. But what a grand and glorious experience, and, full of thanksgiving, little reck we the storm as we jog on our way to the river side [and our camp]...

Also reprinted in St. Louis Globe-Democrat, August 3, 1879, p. 10

Mrs. Mary Viola Lawrence. Drawn in 1896 from an old daguerreotype.
Mrs. Mary Viola Lawrence.
Drawn in 1896 "from an old
daguerreotype".

This was the last of seven articles about Yosemite published in the Chronicle on Sundays between June 15 and July 27, 1879. The correspondent, signed only as "Ridinghood", gives her description of current events in the Valley, including the Sabbath-School Assembly, as well as her reminiscence of earlier visits. Therefore, it is not completely excluded that the Half Dome ascent described above, had happened in an earlier year. The author discloses that the party consisted of eight people, including several ladies, led by James Hutchings. We also learn that "Mr. and Mrs. Snow [of the Snow's House, near the foot of Nevada Fall] were locked in their chalet all last winter". Based on that information, perhaps somebody with good knowledge of the history of the Snow's Hotel could help narrow down the exact year of the Half Dome excursion described by "Ridinghood".

The author hiding behind this nom de plume was Mary Viola Lawrence (nee Tingley), wife of lawyer-politician-editor James Henry Lawrence. She was columnist and correspondent for several California newspapers, and an established literary figure. James Mason Hutchings praises her in his In the Heart of the Sierras as one "who has done so much by her rich and varied description to bespeak wrapt attention to the Valley", but he does not mention this trip in his books.

Mary Viola Tingley (cca 1839 - 1931), was a native of Rushville, Indiana, and came to California in the early fifties. She began her newspaper career by commenting San Francisco social matters for the readers of the Sacramento Union in her popular weekly "Ridinghood Letters". In 1865, the first anthology of California poetry, Outcroppings, was published under Bret Harte's name, although those verses were collected mostly by Mary Tingley. In June 1870, she married James H. Lawrence (1827-1901), a California Senator representing Mariposa, Stanislaus and Merced from 1867 to 1871, and former editor and proprietor of the Mariposa Free Press. She called him "Ingomar" in her "High Sierra" serial. They had one daughter, Constance Violet Lawrence, born in 1879. Eventually, James deserted his wife and daughter, and their divorce followed, but Mary forgave her husband and remarried him a week before his death. Mary continued working for San Francisco newspapers and the Overland Monthly. She was a member of the Woman's Press Association, and a historian of a San Francisco chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. Her book "A Diplomat's Helpmate" (about Rose F. Foote and her experiences in Korea) was published in 1918. She died in her daughter's home in San Francisco on April 23, 1931.


1881: Old rope disintegrated

According to the following account, Anderson's rope became so frayed and unsafe by the summer of 1880, that its lower part got cut to prevent any further climbing attempts and possible accidents. However, some adventurers were still not discouraged.

Ascenders: Anderson, George Strong, possibly another person

This is an abbreviated version of George Strong's description of his ascent of Half Dome in the spring of 1881. Check also the complete article, with illustrations on a separate page.

Pacific Rural Press, San Francisco, Saturday, June 18, 1881, p. 431

In October 1875, Mr. Geo. G. Anderson succeeded, after two days and a half, in accomplishing the first Half Dome ascent. Mr. Anderson is a Scotchman, who has resided in the valley for 15 years. He is a ship carpenter by trade, and had followed the sea in that business for many years before settling on shore. Before his residence in the valley, he was engaged in putting up one or two suspension bridges over the Tuolumne and other rivers, and acquired considerable local fame for fearlessness and steadiness of nerve. After determining to try the ascent of the dome, he prepared eye-bolts, drills, chisels, and the necessary ropes, and packed them to a convenient place, and after much hard work he reached the top, and planted a flagstaff there.

Last year the rope became unsafe, and was cut to prevent any further attempts and possible accidents. When Anderson offered to accompany me to the Saddle, which he said was as far as we could go, I eagerly accepted the invitation. We followed a comparatively easy path toward Cloud's Rest, until we reached a point where we turned off and commenced the ascent toward the Dome. We passed the cabin where Anderson lived and prepared the iron work and bolts for his attempts, emerged from the timber and caught the first glimpse of the Dome and the Saddle. We climbed the projecting spur of the Saddle, with considerable difficulty, and took a long rest upon the comparatively flat surface at the top of this elevation. Two hundred and fifty feet or more above us dangled the frayed and ragged end of the rope which had been broken at that point, and after extending, with one or two breaks, some 400 or 500 ft upward, it again terminated, and apparently where it would be most needed.

I had made up my mind before starting that, if possible, I would attempt the ascent, but dared not speak of it to Anderson, fearing that he would not allow it. But Anderson now seemed to divine my intention. He gathered a few of the bolts which had been pulled out and were lying at the foot upon the Saddle, and selected some of the best of the pieces of rope which were still lying there, to repair with. We started up, putting in a bolt here and there, and making the rope fast, for it was almost entirely loose from the point where it commenced, to its upper end. We added some rope at the lower end, and worked slowly up, not trusting the rope, as it was very weak in many places. Before we had accomplished half the ascent, the clouds began to close in around us, and we abandoned the rope and went up the remainder of the distance as fast as we could. We found the flagstaff fallen down, and set it up, and then the clouds broke away a little and gave us a magnificent view of the valley.

George Strong in the mid 1870s.
G. H. Strong in the mid 1870s.

As new ropes have been sent to the valley by the commissioners, the South Dome will soon be again accessible to anyone who has nerve and does not mind a little hard work, and it is probable that by another season a flight of steps will be put up, as Mr. Anderson has all the necessary lumber just at the foot of the Saddle, and well protected.

I couldn't find any confirmation that a new rope had been delivered and mounted in 1881. The next party, Osborne-Gassaway (below), still found the rope quite weather-worn, with many staples loose and detached from the rock.

George Henry Strong (1839-1925), was about 42 when he climbed Half Dome with Anderson. He was born in Massachusetts, but moved to San Francisco after graduation. He was a patent attorney (solicitor) in the City, and an avid sportsman: a member of the oldest boat club in the Bay Area (Pioneer Rowing Club), and one of founders of the San Francisco Bicycle Club in 1879. He was a co-author of a biking book, The Cyclists' Road-book of California: Containing Maps of the Principal Riding Districts North, East and South from San Francisco, published in 1893. He was also connected with Dewey & Co.'s Mining and Scientific Press Patent Agency, and a member of the Astronomical Society of the Pacific. His younger daughter, Lilian, became the wife of Edward Hale Campbell, a Vice Admiral of the U. S. Navy, in 1899. In his later years, George lived in Oakland, with the family of his older daughter Georgie Strong Hubbard. He died on June 1, 1925.


Ascenders: Anderson(?), Henry Osborne, Frank Gassaway

Henry Z. Osborne described his 1881 ascent in a letter to the editor of the Los Angeles Times, thirty-four years after the actual climb:

Los Angeles Times, August 17, 1915, p. II5

Climbing the Half Dome

Los Angeles, Aug. 16 — To the Editor of the Times: The feat of seventeen college students, several from this city, accompanied by the photographer A. C. Pillsbury, of climbing the Half Dome in the Yosemite Valley [in August 1915]..., is a very notable achievement in mountain climbing.

But it is not quite accurate to say that "this is the first time on record that the top of the Dome has been reached by human beings", although it is probably true it has not been done during the last thirty years.

In the year 1881, when I had less sense and less avoirdupois than now, accompanied by Frank Gassoway [actually: Gassaway], a San Francisco newspaper man, who wrote under the nom de plume "Derick Dodd", I made the ascent of the Half Dome.

I came into the valley horseback from Mono Lake, crossing by the way of Mill Creek Canyon, Mt. Dana, Tioga, the Tuolumne meadows and Lake Tenaya, and meeting Mr. Gassoway in the valley, we agreed together to climb the Half Dome, or the South Dome, as it is sometimes called.

We rode horseback from the valley to the Saddle, which is 960 feet below the summit of the Dome, and from that point we climbed the rock by aid of a rope about a half inch in diameter, which had been placed there by a sailor named Anderson in the early seventies. He had set iron staples with rings in the rock about seventy-five feet apart, and the rope was attached to each of those staples. Many venturesome people climbed the Dome while this rope was in place. At that time the rope was quite weather-worn and many of the staples had become loose and detached from the rock. These rattling on the surface of the granite were very disconcerting during the climb...

From a distance the Half Dome looks perfectly smooth and shines like glass in the sun, but in reality it is of granite of rather coarse texture, and the grain of the rock, with occasional cracks, give a slight foothold.

This rope, which was regarded as dangerous, was taken down that year, and no one has ever ascended the Half Dome in the thirty-odd years since, until the feat of Pillsbury and the students, which was really a very remarkable one.

On the top of the rock, 9500 feet above the sea level, there is an acre or so comparatively level, and on this were many bones of sheep, which had climbed the steep dome, but could not raise sufficient courage to descend, and died at the top rather than make the attempt.

H. Z. Osborne

Well, Osborne was certainly wrong in one thing: Ascents continued even after the summer of 1881. It is interesting that Osborne's climbing partner, Frank Gassaway, made a note about Half Dome in his book Summer saunterings (1882), but he didn't say explicitely that he had made the ascent. What looked like a second hand knowledge, could now be read in a new light in view of that newly found Osborne's letter. It appears that Osborne and Gassaway were accompanied by Anderson on their trip. Here is what Gassaway had said about Yosemite:

Summer saunterings, by Frank Harrison Gassaway, San Francisco, 1882, p. 122:

As a standpoint for the landscape viewer, the polished summit of [Half Dome] is incomparably the finest in the whole range, towering as it does five thousand feet above the Valley floor and commanding its entire scope, from east to west. The drawback to its general enjoyment by the tourist is the undeniably hazardous nature of the present means of ascent, which from the top of the horse-trail to the apex of the eminence is by means of a rope nine hundred feet long. This cord lies upon the slippery surface of the granite slope, the angle never being less than forty degrees. The marvel of the matter is how this cord was first placed on that air-line trail by the spider-footed Geo. Anderson, a guide of the greatest strength and most iron nerve. A man ascending this dizzy slant presents about the relative appearance of a fly walking up the side of an inverted goblet. Very few visitors care to attempt it, unless under the supervision of this guide, Anderson, whose wonderful coolness was acquired as a sailor. The cord itself is hardly calculated to inspire the fullest confidence, being composed of seven thicknesses of common, hay-bale-rope. This, however, is knotted every few inches to assist the hands, besides which the climber can rest at certain intervals and anoint the soles of his feet with fresh mucilage, a bottle of which he carries in his vest pocket for the purpose...

Henry Zenas Osborne (1848-1923), was 32 when he made this Half Dome ascent. He was born in New Lebanon, New York, and came to Bodie, California in 1878, where he edited and managed the Daily Standard and founded the Bodie Daily Free Press. He made the trip to Yosemite during his Bodie years. In 1884, he moved to Los Angeles, and acquired the Evening Republican and the Evening Express, which he directed until 1897. A biographical note from 1889 states that "Mr. Osborne has a family of wife and five children, — four sons and one daughter, — and a pleasant home in Los Angeles". After 1897, Osborne pursued a political career, which culminated in his election as a Republican to Congress in 1916, the post he held until his death in 1923.

Frank Harrison Gassaway (1848-1923), was only nine months older than Osborne, and had the same life span as his Yosemite partner. They both died early in 1923. Frank was 33, and an accomplished poet and reporter in San Francisco, when he climbed the Dome. He was born in Maryland or Washington, D.C., and came to California in or before 1880. By that time, two of his most popular patriotic poems were already published: The Pride of Battery B (4th U.S. Light Artillery), and The Dandy Fifth. In California, he was a regular correspondent for the San Francisco Evening Post. He wrote for the Post a series of semi-humorous, semi-descriptive letters (a la Mark Twain) about popular California tourist attractions under pseudonym of "Derrick Dodd". These writings were collected in the book Summer saunterings in 1882. Later in his life, Gassaway worked for Hearst's San Francisco Examiner. With Hearst's support, a collection of his early works Poems: By Frank Harrison Gassaway were published in New York in 1920. By that time, patriotic poetry of the Civil War era was quickly getting out of style. Gassaway died in 1923 (see his obituary in the New York Times). [Note: Finding Gassaway's biographical data was not an easy task, because he was born Francis, then used the name Frank through most of his life, and was called Franklin at the time of his death].


1883: More climbs

Ascender: Newton Chittenden

Newton Henry Chittenden in about 1890.
N. H. Chittenden in about 1890.

A lawyer, turned traveler, Newton H. Chittenden, published a book with a long title in 1884, in which he described Pacific Coast's health and pleasure resorts. On the page 135, in the chapter about Yosemite, he talks about Snow's Hotel near the foot of Nevada Fall, and says: "When Mrs. Snow, the excellent hostess and housekeeper, came to take possession of her mountain home, thirteen years ago, no bridges had been built..." Since Snow's chalet was opened in April of 1870, it appears that Chittenden's visit took place in 1883. Being that close to Half Dome, and not visiting it, was not an option for Chittenden. He continued: "Six miles more, and then a climb by rope and hand over hand, of 900 feet, at an angle of 45 degrees, and I stood upon the summit of South Dome, one of the grandest pinnacles on earth. Its first ascent was made by Geo. Anderson, Oct. 12th, 1875. It should only be undertaken by those strong of limb and nerve, until rests have been provided for protection, in case of accident".

While it was likely that Chittenden had made his climb in the summer of 1883, I couldn't find any other book or newspaper article that would provide a confirmation or more details. However, in the summer of 2012, I had a chance to check the register of Snow's Hotel in the Yosemite Museum. An undated entry in the 1883 register, written some time between July 27 and August 5 of that year reads:

Newton H. Chittenden, Brooklyn, N.Y. (Pacific Coast address: A. L. Bancroft Publishers 721 Market Str., S. F'o.)

Therefore, we can now fix Chittenden's Half Dome climb to a narrow window around August 1, 1883.

Newton Henry Chittenden (1840-1925), was a native of Connecticut, but moved with his family to Wisconsin in 1855. He served through the Civil War in the Fourth Wisconsin Cavalry, and was honorably discharged in May of 1866. He then resumed his studies, graduated from the Law School at Columbia College in 1868, and worked as attorney in Litchfield, Minnesota in the early 1870s. After his marriage to Amelie Freidrick and the birth of his first child, they moved to Brooklyn, N. Y. In the 1880 Census, five children were listed in Newton and Amelia's household. However, by that time Newton has lost interest in his profession and his family, and began a career of lonely traveler, explorer, adventurer and writer. He was 42 when he made his Half Dome climb in August of 1883. Chittenden became the first white man to explore the interior of the Queen Charlotte Islands, and wrote extensively about that. He was versed in several Indian languages, and his donations to museums in this country, Canada and England have included many valuable relics and much data pertaining to the Indian tribes and prehistoric Americans. In the last years of his life he may have renewed connections to his wife and children. Amelie died in San Diego in 1924, and Newton died in Long Beach a year later, at the age of 84, and is buried in the Sunnyside Cemetery.


Ascenders: Henry Hamilton, Christopher Magee(?), Gerald Strickland(?)

I didn't find any direct newspaper report about this ascent, but an account, written many years later, would suggest that at least Hamilton, and perhaps Magee and Strickland, climbed Half Dome in the summer of 1883.

Foot Prints, by Henry Raymond Hamilton, Lakeside Press, Chicago, 1927, pp. 121-122

[Describing events in 1883, upon his arrival to San Francisco:]

[...In the City, I met a man who] had been to the Orient and the Hawaiian Islands and had landed at San Francisco to begin his invasion of America. His name was Count Bologna Strickland; his father was an Englishman and he had been educated in England. His mother was a Maltese and his estates were on the island of Malta, from whence he took his title. We arranged to make a trip together to the Yosemite Valley, and left San Francisco by rail for the nearest point to the Valley, which I think was Merced, from which we staged into the valley, stopping overnight at the Mariposa Big tree grove. Our companions on this stage trip were Chris Magee of Pittsburgh, and his wife and sister. Chris afterwards became the Republican boss of Western Pennsylvania and had the free and easy manners of the American politician and also the American politician's indifference to titles. The count was very dignified and took himself quite seriously. We stopped for lunch at a roadside cabin, and after the rest of the party had embarked, the count was discovered making notes in his memorandum book, probably for the book he intended writing. Magee electrified him by calling out, Chris Magee
Chris Magee
"Hurry up there Bologna Sausage, old boy, we can't hold this bus all day for you." I suppose that he put this in his notes, too. We were in the valley only one day, but we saw as much as the ordinary tourist sees in three days, because we galloped our horses all day long, from one point to another. We even climbed to the top of the South Dome, a feat which, according to the guide book, had never been accomplished. However, a sailor had managed to scale the height a year or two before, and had left a rope anchored at various points in the rock. By putting one's feet against the rock, and going up about 800 feet of rope, hand over hand, the feat was not so difficult, although it required some agility. When we got to the top, we climbed down to a ledge on the vertical wall of the cliff and dropped stones to the floor of the valley, a straight drop of a mile...

It is not completely clear how many people from Hamilton's party made it to the Dome ("we[?!] even climbed to the top..."). Date of the visit is not given in the book, but it could be narrowed down from passenger and hotel guests lists published in California papers. The Sacramento Daily Union of September 5, shows "Mr. and Mrs. C. L. Magee, and Miss Magee, Pittsburg, Pa." in a train passing Wells, Nevada, on September 4, and arriving to Sacramento/San Francisco on September 5. The Daily Evening Bulletin, San Francisco, September 8, 1883, p. 4, lists Count Strickland coming back from a trip to Honolulu, and arriving to San Francisco on the "City of New York" on September 7. One "H. R. Hamilton of Chicago" was registered in the "Golden Eagle Hotel" in Sacramento on September 14, 1883. The Yosemite trip perhaps took place between September 8 and 13.

Henry Raymond Hamilton (1861-1940), was 22 at the time of this ascent. He was born in Chicago, and in addition to Foot Prints, he also published a book about Chicago history: The Epic of Chicago, in about 1932. Count Gerald Bologna-Strickland (1861-1940), later Lord Strickland, was also 22 at the time of that trip. He was educated at St. Mary's College, Oscott, and Trinity College, Cambridge. In later years, he would serve as Governor of Tasmania, Governor of Western Australia, Governor of New South Wales, and as Prime Minister of Malta. I don't know if he had ever published his notes from the trip to Yosemite. Christopher Lyman Magee (1848-1901) was the oldest of the three Yosemite visitors: his age was 35 in 1883. He would become a noted political figure in Pittsburgh and Pennsylvania. He unexpectedly died while serving as a state senator, in 1901.


Ascenders: Gleadell, Burns

British The Gentleman's Magazine, published the story "Yosemite Memories" by W. H. Gleadell in September 1896. The author remembers his trip from San Francisco to Yosemite a couple of years earlier, and adds the following description of his Half Dome ascent:

The Gentleman's Magazine, London, Volume CCLXXXI [281], September 1896, pp. 245-258

Yosemite Memories, by W. H. Gleadell

...The day was still very young as we galloped down the valley to the Half Dome trail... Near the foot of Nevada Fall stands Snow's Hotel and here we dismounted... At Snow's we stayed long enough to rest and refresh our horses, then continued up the trail to the top of the Nevada Fall, and round the base of a stupendous and isolated mass of rock, nearly perpendicular on all sides, known as the Cap of Liberty. Here we turned out of the Merced Gorge into the Little Yosemite Valley, and by the side of a small brook, the last water we were to see till the same spot was reached on our return, partook alfresco of the luncheon we had brought with us in our saddle-bags.

Our Mexican ponies took us to within 1,000 feet of the summit, the point at which most of the amateur climbers of the ancient abode of Tesaiyac finally stop. Comparatively few, we were assured, ever reach the flag-staff. We had been duly warned before starting of the dangers attendant on the ascent of the rounded dome itself, and we had to confess, as we looked up at the almost perpendicular (about 80 degrees) smooth granite surface and the solitary rope to which we were to trust our lives, that it did look somewhat fearful.

The rope, of fifteen strands of a very strong fibre, was securely fastened at the top of the peak, and then fixed by iron cleats driven into the face of the rock at intervals of 100 feet. The ascent is effected by pulling oneself up this rope hand over hand, at the same time firmly gripping the granite face of the mountain with one's feet. Despite the assertion of guide books that the ascent is "hazardous in the extreme", it is not a difficult feat provided one has a good head and can rely on one's fingers—for a moment's loss of power or self-control must mean inevitable destruction. Only two of us, however, essayed this final portion of the ascent—a Scotchman, bearing the truly Scottish name of Burns, and the writer—but I do not think either of us were sorry when we at last stood on the plateau beside the flagstaff. This plateau was some ten acres in extent, and surrounded on all sides, except that by which we had come, by apparently bottomless abysses, out of which the roaring of distant waters was the only sound that issued. No sign of life or vegetation was visible anywhere save away down in the Yosemite Valley, 5,000 feet below, but the panorama was nevertheless superb. Over intervening canons and gorges the pale majestic Sierra peaks rose grandly desolate against the cloudless sky, and the bald granite rocks around us showed almost as white as the distant snow-capped heights beyond...

For some twenty minutes we stood on this awe-inspiring spot, and then commenced the return journey. This had to be performed backwards, so that fully an hour and a half had elapsed before we again rejoined our friends and ponies.

The sun was getting very low when we once more reached Snow's, and by the time we entered the wood again we found it necessary to dismount and lead our ponies as best we could through the darkness, and many tumbles and bruises were ours before we emerged from the forest on to the floor of the valley... A smart gallop to finish, and we were again at the door of our hotel, having been some twelve hours in the saddle, pleased with ourselves and grateful for all the beauty and majestic grandeur we had seen.

The text was also reprinted in the Eclectic Magazine, Vol. 64, December 1896, pp. 837-846.

The author does not identify a date of the trip directly, other than saying that it started "on a lovely September afternoon" (no year!), but he left several clues in the text that can unmistakenly determine the year. He lists other West Coast visitors at the time of his trip, among them a group "entertained by the American Bar Association", and another one organized by "Mr. Villard of the Northern Pacific Railroad", consisting of "the present Lord Chief Justice of England, and a number of other leading lights of the British Bar and Parliament". He also talks about a recent Yosemite stage robbery. All those events happened in the late August or early September of 1883.

William Henry Gleadell (1864-1941), was about 19 at the time of his ascent. From an interesting biographical note written by his son, we learn that William came to California (and back to Brittain) aboard the White Star Line clipper, Hoghton Tower (sometimes called "Houghton Tower"). This information can furhter narrow down the date of his Yosemite visit. Indeed, San Francisco newspapers show Hoghton Tower arriving to San Francisco on August 31, 1883 ("from Liverpool, via Bahia [Brazil], 175 days on sea"). Gleadell was author of several other essays in British journals (one, for example, about San Francisco Chinatown), and several letters to The Times editor. He fought and was seriously injured in WWI, survived the most intensive period of daylight bombing of London in 1940/1941, and died "very peacefully, at a London nursing home, after a long illness" (The Times) on May 27, 1941.

A good example of how a family tradition could take a life of its own, while not always being easily reconcilable with facts, is a comment in Gleadell's biography quoted above: "He shipped [in Hoghton Tower] as one of five apprentices, including one called Shackleton; all five swore they would never go to sea again. Many years later my father took me, while passing through New York, to hear a lecture by Sir Ernest Shackleton on his polar explorations and it was a thrill for me to go back stage and meet the great man". In fact, while Gleadell's journey in Hoghton Tower happened in 1883/1884, Shackleton, who was ten years younger than Gleadell, first went to sea much later, and spent four years aboard Hoghton Tower from 1890 to 1894. They simply could not have been apprentices on the ship at the same time.


1884: Anderson dies

Anderson never succeeded in building a wooden stairway, let alone an "elevator" to the top of Half Dome. Whatever progress he made in summers, heavy winter snows and avalanches would sweep away. Eventually, he gave up, and focused on building a better access trail to the "saddle", just below the ropes section. The Yosemite Commission, on behalf of the California Legislature, also hired him to work on a new trail to Snow's Hotel, but apparently, he never got paid a cent for that work. The trail remained unfinished, but some of its sections between Happy Isles and Vernal Fall bridge are still in use today.

And then everything came to an abrupt stop. Steve Harrison, in his George Anderson, First Up the Dome, in Yosemite Nature Notes, Vol 46, No. 2, 1977, writes: "In the spring of 1884, while painting Adolph Sinning's cottage in Yosemite Valley, Anderson contracted pneumonia and died May 8 at George Fiske's house". The Stockton Independent printed a note about Anderson's death, but stated that he had died on May 10. The account from the Independent was copied by other newspapers:

Mariposa Gazette, May 24, 1884

Death of a celebrity.
The Stockton Independent says: "George Anderson, a native of Melrose, Scotland, aged 47, and for a long time a resident in Yo Semite Valley, died there on the 10th inst., of acute pneumonia. He was a man of pluck and daring, being the first to climb South Dome, and it was to his skill and perseverance that it's ascent was made possible to others. He was latterly engaged in building a wide passageway from the floor of the Valley up to the Vernal and Nevada Falls, which, being cut in the side of the granite walls, required blasting most of the way".

A more dramatic description of Anderson's death was presented at a California Senate hearing in February 1889, by Charles D. Robinson, who had spent many years in the Valley. Robinson indirectly blamed the Yosemite Commission, and particularly Commissioner Briggs, for Anderson's death. Here is how Chas described, in his own words, the events of the Spring of 1884:

[George Anderson] died from want and exposure, really brought on by want of wages that were justly due him for work on that trail. He died of pneumonia. George Anderson went to Mr. Sinning in the spring (...); he says: "Mr. Sinning, I need money to buy food, and you will have to give me a job. "Well", Sinning told him: "I will give you a job. I want the front of my house washed off and cleaned off" (...) And he went to work on the house, and this storm came up, and George kept to work during the rain, and sleet, and snow falling, and he was under the weather at that time, and Sinning begged him, he says: "George, don't work any more; I will pay you just the same if you don't work". George said he had always earned his living, and he didn't want charity from anybody; he would work for it. He was finally obliged to give up, and went in and sat down in Sinning's house, and was taken with chills; and the building that I occupied for a studio he was using to do some wood work in the winter. He had permission from me. He went in that building and laid in his bunk, and they carried him away almost by force. Nobody in the valley except the Leidigs seemed to care anything about the man. He laid there, and would have died without any care or any attention at all in the valley. When it was too late they took him down to Mr. Fiske's house, I believe; took him down there, but it was too late, and he died from pneumonia, simply from want and exposure. He had nothing on earth wherewith to provide himself with the necessaries of life (...) [His death] was one of the greatest losses that Yosemite Valley ever sustained in the shape of a laborer or handy man...

George's brother, Charlie Anderson, testified in the same hearing that George only had $2.50 left in cash at the time of his death. The Commission allegedly had owned him about $1,500.

You can find Anderson's simple grave in the Yosemite Cemetery, in the Valley.


Other early ascents, for which dates could not be established

Many other tourists made it to Half Dome in the summer seasons of 1876-1883, either directly guided by Anderson, or by using his system of ropes and pins. We can only guess the number of successful ascents during the years in which Anderson has kept his route in working order (apparently, up to 1882 or 1883). Hutchings estimates that almost 18,000 people had visited the Valley from 1876 to 1883, or—on average—some 2000 visitors per year (deduced from his In the Heart of the Sierras, Chapter 10). Hittel, in his Hand-book of Pacific Coast Travel, published in 1885, states that (p. 158) "Out of 100 tourists who visit the Yosemite, 80 go to Glacier Point, as many to the Nevada Fall, 20 to Eagle Point, 10 to Cloud's Rest, and 3 to the top of the Half Dome". This estimate, combined with Hutchings' numbers, would suggest some sixty Half Dome ascents per year during Anderson's era (compare this to as many as 1,000 hikers per day atop the Dome on a typical summer weekend in 2008). There are other, more conservative estimates. For example, in an article about Half Dome from 1901, we find the sentence: "Some years ago an old sailor was engaged for several summmers drilling rings into the rock... and by means of the rope venturesome stocking-footed climbers, to the number of about fifty, including several women, made their way over the shelf of rock..." (The Atlanta Constitution, March 24, 1901, p. A5) Unfortunately, names of climbers or dates of those ascents were not recorder in newspapers that I can reach.

In a few cases, we know names of early ascenders, but dates of their trips could not be established with certainty:

Ascenders: Anderson, Julius Birge, a young San Franciscan (between 1875 and 1877)

Birge's book The Awakening of the Desert was already quoted above. Birge must have made it to the top shortly after Sarah Dutcher's ascent, because he had found her bracelet on the summit plateau. However, it is not clear if this was in 1875 or in later years.

Ascender: Fannie Crippen

After their father's death, four Crippen sisters were adopted and raised by their step-father, a hotelkeeper in the Valley, John Barnard. We already met the eldest sister Abbie Crippen and talked about her Half Dome ascent in 1877. Shirley Sargent in her Pioneers in Petticoats adds that Abbie's sister Fannie Crippen, born in 1864, made it to the top with another party, but no date is given: "When Fannie climbed Half Dome with three other daredevil souls, they scorned the usual route and started at Mirror Lake, scrambling up to the dome's face, then skirting easterly around the back, and up the cable. Their shoes wore out before they reached home". No source for this (quite confusing) description was given in Sargent's book.

Miss Mary Adair, Yosemite teacher.
Mary Adair, Yosemite teacher,
1881/82 and 1882/83.

Ascender: Mary Adair (1883?)

An interesting Web article, "The Pioneer Adair Family of Mariposa", gives the following brief biography of Mary E. Adair: "She became a teacher and taught school in Yosemite. She was also an artist and painted many pictures of Yosemite. She was the first woman to climb Half Dome..." We know that Mary was not the first woman to climb Half Dome, but we don't know the date of her possible ascent. Mary taught in Yosemite in the 1881/82 and 1882/83 seasons, then she was assigned to a school in Indian Gulch later in 1883. Shirley Sargent, in her Petticoats (p. 43), has a full-page photo with the description: "Yosemite schoolhouse and pupils with schoolmarm Mary Adair about 1881", but she doesn't mention Mary's Half Dome climb. Later in her life, after her marriaga to Lewis (or Louis) E. Aubury, Mary became an active member of the Native Daughters of the Golden West (NDGW) in Southern California. In the March 1917 issue of the Grizzly Bear, the official organ of NDGW, a brief note about recent activities in Los Angeles says (page 14): "Tells of perilous trip: February 19 [1917], Mrs. Mary Aubury entertained with an account of her ascent of South Dome, Yosemite, in 1883; she was the first woman to make this then-perilous trip". If we are to believe this note, Mary's ascent took place probably in the summer of 1883.

Ascender: William Stegman (1876?)

On January 21, 1938, the Oakland Tribune printed William G. Stegman's obituary. It reads: "Veteran miner Stegman dies in Berkeley. A man who boasted he was the second man ever to climb Half Dome in Yosemite died in a nursing home here yesterday after a short illness. Stegman died after a rigorous career of mining and exploring over the North American continent, in which he touched Alaska, Washington, Oregon and most of the California mining country. His father was the first intendent of Yosemite after it became a National Park, he often told his nephews and nieces. It was while the elder Stegman was in that capacity that the son followed a guide's trail made up the granite side of the famous Sierra cliff the previous day. He came to live in Oakland in 1928, and was never married. A number of nieces and nephews survive". I didn't find any other independent confirmation of William Stegman's ascent.

William George Stegman (1849-1938) was born in Arkansas in about 1849. In 1875, the year of his alleged Half Dome ascent, he was about twenty-six years old. His father and mother, Henry and Margaret Stegman, were immigrants from Prussia. In the 1850s his family moved to Cornitos, Mariposa County, California. In the 1870s his father Henry kept a livery stable in Yosemite, and later became the first recorded Wells Fargo's agent in the Valley. Henry also served as a postmaster in the Valley around 1882, but certainly was at no time "intendent of Yosemite". Young William at first worked for his father, then moved to Pima County, Arizona (1880 Census), and later to New Mexico, involved mostly in mining-related activities. In Alameda County voter registers from 1928 to 1938, his occupation is indicated as 'mining engineer'. He had several brothers and sister. His brothers were Charles Henry Stegman and E. Stegman. His sisters Margaret, Lizzie (Lizza), and Martha A. Stegman (Mattie) were married to Samuel A. Youse, Samuel Miller, and Josiah Parker Ames respectively. Another sister, Frances A. Stegman (Fannie), stayed unmarried. Several of George's siblings lived in Oakland in the early twentieth century.


Adventurous ascents continued between 1884 and 1919

The second part of this article covers years between 1884 and 1919. In 1919, Hall McAllister, under the auspices of the Sierra Club, installed two steel cables attached to support pipes, which are basically still in use (though upgraded several times since).


Other online resources about early Half Dome ascents:

James Mason Hutchings, In the Heart of the Sierras, Chapter 26

Steve Harrison, George Anderson, First Up the Dome, Yosemite Nature Notes, Volume 46, No. 2, 1977

 

 
 
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